rear wheel bearings

[tifoso]

Finally getting around to replacing rear wheel bearings that have been howling for quite a while. Encountering a few issues; 1st-rear rotor is stuck, decided after reading a post by Gibbons that it might be best to remove bearing hub with the rotor attached and then trying to hit rotor loose when it's free from the car and there's more room to swing a hammer. I'm trying to use a hub puller but am concerned about the force this would exert on the drive shaft, cv joints and rear diff, would this be an issue? 2nd- noticed what appears to be gear oil dripping from the viscous coupling which I assume is originating from the diff, just wondering what he symptoms of a fried diff are and lastly does anyone know what the torque setting for the drive shaft bolt is?

[olevolvo]

I just started doing mine yesterday. I beat it loose. Worst case you'll break your rotor. Wheel bearing takes a few whacks too. ( after the four bolts are out)

[tifoso]

I was hoping not to ruin a perfectly good rotor. I've been hitting the rotor with a dead blow hammer but it's no use, it might as well be welded on. You must have used a pretty big hammer.

[dpaton]

I assume you have released the tension on the parking brake nut (at the handle) prior to rear rotor removal and confirmed the cables are loose?

Multiple rounds of some sort of "rust buster", a *very* short drive with lug nuts loose and HEAT can also help.

[tifoso]

Yes, I slackened off the parking brake nut. Applied heat with a propane torch and lots of banging like a said with a dead blow hammer because I would like to if possible preserve the rotor. Still nothing not even a budge. Haven't tried driving it because I've already removed the 4 bolts for the bearing hub. As I mentioned in my initial post wanted to use a hub puller to take rotor and hub off but was concerned this might the damage drive shaft, cv joints or maybe even the rear diff. Was wondering if anyone has used a hub puller on the rear bearing with any success.

[dpaton]

I don't see how you could use a puller there.

I used a full size sledge the first time to get the rotor free from the hub (dead blows) but it took multiple attempts. Then a 4 pound hand sledge to free the bearing from the holder.

Can your drive shaft slide inside the hub?

Oxygen and acetylene may be required for the job, you could try a cheap (~$50) Oxy-MPS rig but it may not have the BTUs you need.

[tifoso]

Yes, the hub is surprisingly clean and corrosion free, the drive shaft slides back and forth no problem. But I imagine that a considerable amount of force would have to be applied with a puller to free the hub from the knuckle. IPD sells a puller apparently for this purpose. I attached my puller to the hub and applied a little bit of force and saw the cv joints compress at an awkward angle and decided it would be best not to go this route. So i went back to penetrating oil and banging with a hammer, but with no success. My guess - this is due to having the last rear brake job done at a shop and they didn't bother to put anti-seize on on the mounting surfaces between hub and rotor, asI do when doing my own brakes. Hate to say this but I'm about ready to put the whole works together an taking it to a shop. I've never encountered a rotor this stubborn.

[billr99]

Just as a thought here, you have backed off the e-brake adjustment quite a bit to pull the shoes away from the e-brake drum located in the rear rotor hat?

Good luck,

Bill

[tifoso]

I backed it off quite a bit. And since the e-brake always always gets used when the car is parked I know it`s not stuck. Thanks to everyone for the tips and encouragement, but this is nuts. There`s no way a rotor should be this hard to take off. I mean we`re talking about rust here right, the stuff that flakes off when you poke it with a screwdriver. This damn thing feels like it`s welded on.

[Alfa Andy]

It sounds like you have done all of the typical/practical approaches. Been there. Time to get all midevil on this rotor. Quickly heat the mating surface with a torch and swing away with bfh (big f**king hammer). Use Never Sieze when reassembling.