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Thread: looseness in engine strut

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
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    Default looseness in engine strut

    Hi - I've got some issues with downshifting clunking noise when the engine/gearbox warms up, and have looked through the various possible causes via the 'Howards' site.
    For starters I find it very strange that this clunking only appears after some 8 kilometres or so, and can't think of any reason that this might have any relation faulty valves?
    I did notice the upper engine torque mount to be very 'loose' when moving the cross bar forwards and backwards.
    Could the 'looseness' of this mount have anything to do with the alignment of the transmission therefor creating a poor downshift?

    Love to get some feedback!

    Noek

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Devon PA
    Posts
    8,117

    Default

    The horizontal (side to side) engine and strut brace is supposed to be a bit "loose".

    You need to check all three motor mounts, the upper torque mount, the "front" (lower right) mount and the rear transmission mount.

    Chances are all are bad by now and if you install new ones I'm sure it will be 1000% times better.

    Upper torque mounts are good for maybe 40,000 miles, the two lower mounts are good (on average) for about 80-100K miles then need replacing.

    If you can move the upper with the motor shut off, it's 100% shot
    Contact info: jrl1194(at)aol(dot)com
    For car purchase info only please use:
    jrl1194(at)gmail(dot)com

  3. #3
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    Jul 2012
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    SYDNEY
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JRL View Post
    The horizontal (side to side) engine and strut brace is supposed to be a bit "loose".

    You need to check all three motor mounts, the upper torque mount, the "front" (lower right) mount and the rear transmission mount.

    Chances are all are bad by now and if you install new ones I'm sure it will be 1000% times better.

    Upper torque mounts are good for maybe 40,000 miles, the two lower mounts are good (on average) for about 80-100K miles then need replacing.

    If you can move the upper with the motor shut off, it's 100% shot
    Thanks you so much for this suggestion!
    I'll drive in to ask for replacement of all in that case! Replacing the ultimate (valve body) scares me to bits from a financial point of view!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
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    1,944

    Default

    Without knowing the miles/age of the car - I am guessing that your mounts are worn (as JRL said, mine were replaced at 90-110K on both cars).

    However, a clunk after warm-up is likely not your mounts...if it were the mounts, it would clunk when cold too...sounds like a transmission issue...
    Current Fleet:
    2006 Corolla (kid's car - 108K, Conti Eco Contacts, Castrol Edge 5W30)
    2005 MB S600 (63K, M1 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (165K, Nokian WR G2, Pennzoil Ultra 5W30)
    2002 V70-T5 (143K, IPD bars, Bilsteins, Extreme Contact DWS, Mobil 1 5W40)
    1992 MB 300E (Sportline - 123K, Nokian WR G2, Edge 5W40)
    1990 4-Runner (V6, 4WD, mild lift - 239K, 31" BFG AT KO, Edge 10W30)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemount spares, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Devon PA
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    8,117

    Default

    Normally I would say yeah, but not always.
    My 07 had a nasty clank going into gear when warm, not cold.
    After 3 new mounts were installed, nothing, quiet as a mouse.
    I have found that the lower rear mount has a lot to do with this
    Contact info: jrl1194(at)aol(dot)com
    For car purchase info only please use:
    jrl1194(at)gmail(dot)com

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    SYDNEY
    Posts
    4

    Default

    Thanks guys! My XC is a 2006 model with 160.000 on the clock and always serviced on time.
    I suspect that engine mounts replacement might be a cheaper option to start with.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
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    Default

    By that year, the transmission valve body wear and other issues had been identified and fixed. That's good.

    In addition to replacing the mounts, a fluid exchange (I don't like machine flushes, but the Gibbons method is very good) would likely smooth out the shifts. Trans fluid wears out too...
    Current Fleet:
    2006 Corolla (kid's car - 108K, Conti Eco Contacts, Castrol Edge 5W30)
    2005 MB S600 (63K, M1 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (165K, Nokian WR G2, Pennzoil Ultra 5W30)
    2002 V70-T5 (143K, IPD bars, Bilsteins, Extreme Contact DWS, Mobil 1 5W40)
    1992 MB 300E (Sportline - 123K, Nokian WR G2, Edge 5W40)
    1990 4-Runner (V6, 4WD, mild lift - 239K, 31" BFG AT KO, Edge 10W30)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemount spares, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    SYDNEY
    Posts
    4

    Default

    Well, that IS good news about the rectification!
    I have studied the gibbons method with great detail, in order to give that a try first!
    Thank you all for providing me some direction as to this annoying issue!
    It somehow takes away from the luxurious feeling of driving this car; anticipating this clunck as if someone has hit you up the back!

    Thanks again!!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    1,944

    Default

    Make certain that you use the correct fluid for this car, it must meet JWS-3309. The cheapest, easiest solution is Toyota T-IV, available from your local Toyota dealership. Aisin-Warner built this trans...that's a Toyota division, so they make the right fluid. The Volvo fluid is the same stuff, packaged at 4 times the price...I am not a fan of the "universal" fluids that claim to meet all specs...while the viscosities are similar, the friction properties are different...Go with the Toyota T-IV.
    Current Fleet:
    2006 Corolla (kid's car - 108K, Conti Eco Contacts, Castrol Edge 5W30)
    2005 MB S600 (63K, M1 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (165K, Nokian WR G2, Pennzoil Ultra 5W30)
    2002 V70-T5 (143K, IPD bars, Bilsteins, Extreme Contact DWS, Mobil 1 5W40)
    1992 MB 300E (Sportline - 123K, Nokian WR G2, Edge 5W40)
    1990 4-Runner (V6, 4WD, mild lift - 239K, 31" BFG AT KO, Edge 10W30)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemount spares, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

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