Location of Castng Number on 98XC Cylinder Head

[StoningtonXC70]

Talked to a gearhead young engineer at work today about my 98XC burnt valve situation. He recommended I check out getting a reman head from Clearwater Cylinder Head in FLA, and he would do the work for me. He's done a few head replacement jobs on several cars, including his Saturn. Called Clearwater and they need a casting number from the existing head. I could not find it, supposedly is on the exhaust side. I could not see one on a quick look around while on the phone with them. Supposedly the number should start with 100... FYI they want $400 for a reman head for this model, which includes new valves, seals, springs, etc. Most of their inventory on line is in the $350-400 range. That said, i still need to convince my wife that this is a reasonable way to go. Wish me luck.

[cattlecar]

I have a head off my 98 xc70 and its number is 1001716.
The number is dead center of the back of the head directly above the #3 exhaust port. I took a mirror out to the car and I can barely make out the number on the cylinder head in the car due to the heat shield and exhaust manifold. I could see it using a 2 X 4 mirror on edge stuck down in there and a flashlight to illuminate.
The cylinder head number I have from the original engine cylinder head should be valid. When I took that engine apart it seemed to be the original headl from all evidence and from my own experience. I am not aware of a 98 XC having more than one engine version.

[lookforjoe]

There is only one head casting for all '98's, period. The casting # will be the same as for a 2.3L, though. The cams are what differs between HPT(2.3L) and LPT(2.4l), and the casting # won't indicate that.

The casting # from my '98 XC head (which is sitting in my basement) is 1001683003 , located above #3 exhaust port

[StoningtonXC70]

Thanks guys, if I can't find the number on the installed head, I will give them the number off the original head that was trashed a few years back when the belt tensioner which was not changed along with the belt let loose. The old head bent valves and all is still in my garage. Still working on bringing my wife around to fixing the Volvo rather than letting it go. After wasting the better part of the day looking at two potential replacements, 2002 and 2003 Ford Rangers which presented really well on AutoTrader.com with 38 to 43K miles, she may be coming around. Both Ranger's undercarriage, bed and fender undersides, rear wheel wells, and frame members were severely rusted out. I was shocked how bad they were. The bolts and bolting flange of one of the Ranger's driveshafts at the rear axle coupling were just a solid mass of rust. Both were one owner trucks, one out of Vermont and one out of NH. Looks like neither of them were ever undercoated. The aluminum wheels on one had huge patches of corrosion on them. I cant imagine how that might have happened, unless they were encrusted with road salt in the winter for long periods and never washed off. A real shame, they looked to be in great shape otherwise. But I'm not going to put up close to 10K for a rustbucket. The Volvo dirty side is still solid as a rock with NO significant rust and its 4 to 5 years older. My son's 90 740 wagon with over 300K is still solid structurally and no sheetmetal rust either.