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Thread: Intake manifold gasket installation

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Sammamish, WA
    Posts
    1,257

    Default Intake manifold gasket installation

    Helping a local Volvo owner with his 02 V70XC's PCV job (118k miles). The lower bolt near the thermostat housing won't come all the way out (my 01 T5 and V70XC was unblocked)

    Rather than removing the thermostat housing, is it easier to just cut a slit in bottom of the bolt hole on the new gasket? The intake port is still completely sealed by the gasket, the slit won't compromise that part of the gasket. Just going around the bolt. I believe it is the upper right hand bolt hole in this picture



    By the way, this car's PCV's oil drain port was completely clogged. So far, my statistics are

    01 V70 T5 + synthetic. All clear at 100k mi.
    01 V70XC + synthetic. Banjo nipple clogged at 100k mi.
    02 V70XC + dino. Oil drain port clogged at 100k+ mi.

    Looks like our PCV may not fare much better than the pre 01 5 cylinder. Synth is probably the key to keep PCV healthy.
    (6/2013)
    2001 V70XC 120k mi 23mpg
    2011 Toyota Prius Model2 34k mi ~52mpg in summer!
    SOLD 2001 V70 T5 ASR 132k. 4/11/2012
    http://freewebs.com/howardsvolvos/

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Fort Worth Texas or thereabouts
    Posts
    364

    Default

    Slotting that last hole is commonly done on these engines.
    No ill effects I have ever seen

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Sammamish, WA
    Posts
    1,257

    Default

    cattlecar... thanks for the quick reply. We'll do that to make the task simpler
    (6/2013)
    2001 V70XC 120k mi 23mpg
    2011 Toyota Prius Model2 34k mi ~52mpg in summer!
    SOLD 2001 V70 T5 ASR 132k. 4/11/2012
    http://freewebs.com/howardsvolvos/

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    1,990

    Default

    Not synth per se...but changing the oil before the additives wear out...in particular, before it becomes acidic and starts forming sludge.

    Unfortunately, many oils will not make it 7,500 miles in this car before turning acidic. Most synthetics will make it that far...
    Current Fleet:
    2006 Corolla (kid's car - 108K, Conti Eco Contacts, Castrol Edge 5W30)
    2005 MB S600 (63K, M1 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (165K, Nokian WR G2, Pennzoil Ultra 5W30)
    2002 V70-T5 (143K, IPD bars, Bilsteins, Extreme Contact DWS, Mobil 1 5W40)
    1992 MB 300E (Sportline - 123K, Nokian WR G2, Edge 5W40)
    1990 4-Runner (V6, 4WD, mild lift - 239K, 31" BFG AT KO, Edge 10W30)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemount spares, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Sammamish, WA
    Posts
    1,257

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Astro14 View Post
    Not synth per se...but changing the oil before the additives wear out...in particular, before it becomes acidic and starts forming sludge.

    Unfortunately, many oils will not make it 7,500 miles in this car before turning acidic. Most synthetics will make it that far...
    Thanks for the clarity Astro14, make sense. By the way, one note I forgot to mention is I ran my mobil 1 at 5000 mile change intervals. On the dino oil car, I unfortunately don't know the oil change interval.
    (6/2013)
    2001 V70XC 120k mi 23mpg
    2011 Toyota Prius Model2 34k mi ~52mpg in summer!
    SOLD 2001 V70 T5 ASR 132k. 4/11/2012
    http://freewebs.com/howardsvolvos/

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