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Thread: Replace Rear Sway Bar Bushings

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Ottawa, ON, Canada
    Posts
    460

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    Just have a look at IPD's instructions. They have simplified it as much as possible for the home mechanic. It will give you an idea on how to get to the bushings.

    FRONT SWAY BAR INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS.PDF (658KB)

    REAR SWAY BAR INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS.PDF (7133KB)
    Ars Gladius

    2004 Blue Metallic XC70 - 215k KM

    Done: Mobil 1 0w40,
    Yokohama Geolander A/T-S & IceGUARD iG51V, IPD Poly Crossbar Bushings & Poly Trans Mount, Elevate Poly Upper Eng Mount, IPD Si Boost Tube Couplers and TCV Lines, IPD HD TCV, IPD Sway Bars, Brembo Rotors, Akebono Pads, SS Brake Lines, Volvo Skid Plate, VIDA DiCE

    To Do: Speakers / Head Unit, IPD HD Coils + New Plugs, IPD Stage 1 Tune, Performance Downpipe & Exhaust, IPD HD CBV, Rear HD Springs

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Nova Scotia
    Posts
    2,300

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ars Gladius View Post
    Just have a look at IPD's instructions. They have simplified it as much as possible for the home mechanic. It will give you an idea on how to get to the bushings.

    FRONT SWAY BAR INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS.PDF (658KB)

    REAR SWAY BAR INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS.PDF (7133KB)
    Both instruction sets not too dissimliar to what VIDA has to say and both pretty ugly considering. I just took a look at the front bar on my XC and the brackets are indeed on top of the subframe but are located quite close to the wheel end of the bar. Just about where the boots on the steering rack are. You just might, and I say might, be able to get a closed-end wrench on both the bolts of each bracket and loosen them. Since I was just looking in thru the wheel opening, I can't tell, however, if there is enough clearance with the subframe bolted up to allow the rearward bracket bolt to be fully loosened and removed. Looks to be pretty tight there. Front bolt looks doable. On the assumption that both bolts are removable, then it should be no problem to replace just the bushing with the alternatives I've already mentioned. In any case, using IPD instructions to lower the rear of the subframe to the amount they specify then it would be fairly easy to replace just the bushing. No real need to replace the whole assembly per the "official" way.

    I have to say this chassis is about the worse I've seen for this job. They've really tucked the bars up and out of the way which is bad enough, but then to do like they have in back with a non-standard approach to mounting; it really looks like they have gone out of their way to guarantee work to the dealers and the Volvo parts business.

    Cheers,

    Bill
    Western Head, NS CDN

    '02 V70XC (Ash Gray)-360K kms to-date
    '96 854R (Red)-real CDN-spec 5 speed R - gone @250k kms
    '98 V70 -wife's basic, no options wagon - gone @390k kms
    '91 744GL - killed by son @ 220K kms
    '90 744T w/Turbo Plus -killed by son @260K mi
    '78 245 w/4sp-OD -killed by wife @166K mi
    '76 265 w/4sp-OD -gas hog gone
    And a whole tonne of other Euro stuff (VW (8), SAAB (5), Land Rover (4), Audi (3), BMW (2), Porsche (2), Mini (2), Opel (1), MB (1), MG (1), Sunbeam (1))

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Nova Scotia
    Posts
    2,300

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    .PDF file on this subject now up on the "Resources" section of this site.

    Cheers,

    Bill
    Western Head, NS CDN

    '02 V70XC (Ash Gray)-360K kms to-date
    '96 854R (Red)-real CDN-spec 5 speed R - gone @250k kms
    '98 V70 -wife's basic, no options wagon - gone @390k kms
    '91 744GL - killed by son @ 220K kms
    '90 744T w/Turbo Plus -killed by son @260K mi
    '78 245 w/4sp-OD -killed by wife @166K mi
    '76 265 w/4sp-OD -gas hog gone
    And a whole tonne of other Euro stuff (VW (8), SAAB (5), Land Rover (4), Audi (3), BMW (2), Porsche (2), Mini (2), Opel (1), MB (1), MG (1), Sunbeam (1))

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Pacific Northwest
    Posts
    1,456

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    Noticed one of my rear sway bar bushing is torn while taking out the leaky rear diff pinion seal. So got the same Energy Suspensions PN 9.5103 bushing bracket set as Bill in this post.

    Question for Bill: The omega shaped metal brackets are 1/8" thick, looks tough to bend the L turn straight. Can you share your method?

    The poly bushings are really stiff. Hope I can force them onto the sway bar
    SOLD 2001 V70XC @123k 20mpg. No more Volvos due to shift to better gas mileage
    SOLD 2001 V70 T5 @132k 22mpg.
    2013 Tesla Model S 85kWHr 14k miles 90 eMPG. Best car ever
    2011 Toyota Prius Model2 45k 60mpg
    2001 VW Golf GLS 1.8T Auto 143k Fahrvergnügen but only 23mpg
    http://freewebs.com/howardsvolvos/

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Nova Scotia
    Posts
    2,300

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by howardc64 View Post
    Noticed one of my rear sway bar bushing is torn while taking out the leaky rear diff pinion seal. So got the same Energy Suspensions PN 9.5103 bushing bracket set as Bill in this post.

    Question for Bill: The omega shaped metal brackets are 1/8" thick, looks tough to bend the L turn straight. Can you share your method?

    The poly bushings are really stiff. Hope I can force them onto the sway bar
    Howard:

    Nothing fancy. A vice and a couple of good "gos" with a sledge. Then I used a smaller ball peen to get the brackets into the final U-shape. The bushings themselves are pretty stiff, but a bit of the grease they provide and a start with a wide-bladed screwdriver will get them started on the bar, then its just a good push with your hands. You noted in my instructions the need to slightly grind down the base of the bushings slightly to fit? This is the only thing that takes some care so that you don't go too far.

    I can report after 6 months or however long its been since I put them on, that all is well. I was under there the other day taking a look and everything was as it should be so I stand behind this fix as a viable alternative to the considerably more expensive official fix. Plus I think it does have a positive fix on handling although my old bushings were so bad I can't the tell if it was just new bushings or the stiffer properties of poly versus rubber.

    Cheers,

    Bill
    Western Head, NS CDN

    '02 V70XC (Ash Gray)-360K kms to-date
    '96 854R (Red)-real CDN-spec 5 speed R - gone @250k kms
    '98 V70 -wife's basic, no options wagon - gone @390k kms
    '91 744GL - killed by son @ 220K kms
    '90 744T w/Turbo Plus -killed by son @260K mi
    '78 245 w/4sp-OD -killed by wife @166K mi
    '76 265 w/4sp-OD -gas hog gone
    And a whole tonne of other Euro stuff (VW (8), SAAB (5), Land Rover (4), Audi (3), BMW (2), Porsche (2), Mini (2), Opel (1), MB (1), MG (1), Sunbeam (1))

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    8

    Default

    Old thread I know. But wanted to say 'good job' in sorting this out for the rear sway bar. I spent a couple of hours searching the forum until I stumbled on this thread. It does seem a bit ridiculous to have to replace the entire bar just to fix a blown bushing.
    Has anybody sourced a similar fix for the front sway bar? I need to urgently replace mine as I finally pinpointed it as the source of the annoying clunk on the passenger side of my vehicle.
    Thanks.
    1974 142 'Grand Luxe' - First Car ---> 1981 244 DL ---> 1980 242 GT - Should never have sold ---> 1979 245 Wagon - 450,000k then odometer failed ---> 1977 244 DL ---> 1986 740 Turbo ---> 1986 240 DL Wagon ---> 1967 122S 'Canadian' - Presently rebuilding ---> 2001 V70 XC - Daily driver

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    maritime Prov. Canada
    Posts
    3

    Default

    Bill,

    Thank you for your fix for this. Good write up (as usual) and keeping another Canadian X/C rolling..

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