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  1. #31
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    CA USA
    Posts
    34

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    Quote Originally Posted by nortons View Post
    .... Wife hates driving it, too, wants Chrysler minivan back= better mpg, regular gas, way cheaper to fix and insure, way more usable room. But, she does like those heated seats!
    Admittedly there's a lot of ranting to sift through, but I was responding to the above. Sure, you'll take a hit on timing maybe 4-8 degrees at times with regular gas, but for this guy if he wants to run regular he can. Given all the issues he's already got I doubt he'll notice much impact. As for the key, well he's apparently been driving some older cars. When I boughgt my 2000 brand new, it was a pretty big investment and I was glad it had an rfid in the key and a decent immobilizer. 13 years later I still have the same two keys and remotes. Replaced the batteries once and one remote got a new case. Even the cheapest car sold today (Nissan Versa 1.6 S) has rfid keys, and ABS, stability control, etc. Just the way it is. He need to recalibrate his expectations.
    Last edited by 3p141592654; 03-06-2013 at 07:44 PM.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Dearborn, Michigan, USA
    Posts
    110

    Default

    Update;
    Still waiting for call from locksmith about re-coding ignition lock cylinder, so no word yet.
    About grumbling about this car, I am a retired professional dealership mechanic, (among other things), though admittedly, I left working for car dealers in late '80s, BMW/M-B/GM/Nissan/Renault, to work for large auto company with good benefits package. I left the field on the leading edge of the electronic revolution, and it is a learning curve. Yeah, I am a cheapskate. Writing a check to pay someone to do work on my car is a sacrilege. I do 99% of EVERYTHING needed to keep my cars, bikes and truck safe and reliable, everything from glass replacement, to paint, to clutches, to brakes&suspension, to engine rebuilds and I tend to keep my vehicles for many years. Last car I sold had 200k and neighbor drives it to work every day.
    I also make a side income fixing and flipping used cars and motorcycles and have a small business restoring award winning vintage British bikes. I'm no babe in the woods on this stuff. The problem is, of all the many dozens of vehicles I have bought, fixed and sold for decent profit, this PARTICULAR Volvo, (my first FWD) has been the worst. I love Volvos! I have 2 others; an '83 242 Turbo, owned since '86, now undergoing a Mustang V8 swap/restoration and a super clean '84 242 DL. Used to work on Volvo trade-ins all the time at BMW dealer. I would drive (and maintain!) the RWD Volvos forever, if I could find decent ones here in road salt corrosion heaven Michigan. The FWD/AWD cars are a different world. Junkyards are full of them, (clean ones, too!), that owners sent to scrapyard because repair costs, (almost universally auto transmissions and/or electrical problems), were more than car was worth. They go cheap around here, no matter the condition, much less than anywhere else in USA. I would guess, from lots of time watching Ebay prices, that avg. price sold here is maybe 40-60% of price in NW, Fla., Texas, etc. Blue book prices vary; quote $5500 to around $6500, but you can buy these around here all day for around $2000-$4000. Mostly because EVERYTHING rots away from road salt, no matter who makes it. Though much better than in years past, it's nothing to see 3 year old cars with rust bubbling through, and there is almost no such thing as a 10 year old Japan car. This car has zero rust, that is why I bought it.
    So, yeah, I'm not happy with this particular Volvo and my story is a very common one. In a year and about 8k miles, I, (or PO) have replaced or repaired; 2 front window regulators, 2 power lock motors, a charcoal canister, both front wheel ABS sensors, a vehicle speed sensor, an alternator, all 4 rotors and 2 front calipers, radio speaker, power seat motors, low quality front seat leather covers replaced, ($$$$$!!!!), worn through and broken armrest, 6 bulbs in switches-(dealer wants $11 EACH!), a handful of inst. panel bulbs, sunroof leaks, water leaks at windshield, wind noise, 2 head lamp bulbs and a driving lamp bulb, R/H headlight wiper motor, 2 power window switches, 2 rotten door seals, repairing failing adhesive on all 4 door trim panels, replacing, (with salvage yard parts), most of the interior trim, and, don't forget=a transmission!, (see thread "Why won't trans shops touch my 2000 Volvo V70XC?" I did not have facilities at time to do trans swap and could not find shop in Detroit area who would touch car due to past bad experiences), ignition lock cylinder, non-functioning FOBs, and now, problems with ABS module and possibly ECU. More, too, coming; poor quality clear coat on hood is failing, so I'll have to repaint that, speedo is erratic, exhaust is looking "iffy", noises from AWD transfer case and a noisy fuel pump. Oh, and oil filters cost $20!!
    I've spent countless hours and piles of money on this car and it only had 90k miles on it! Body is super clean and looks great. It is a great driving car, (when it runs!), comfortable, quick, good brakes, nice steering, etc, (though it only averages 16.1mpg on premium gas), but it just a huge PIA and I've dumped way too much into it to even break even on it, so I'm stuck driving it to get any use of the wads of cash and time I've put into it. I figured a low mileage, rust free car loaded with options, in decent but dirty condition for $800 was a chance to make a few bucks for my 242 V8 project. Since buying it, I've been stopped by a good number of current and former FWD/AWD Volvo owners and ALL say the same; "Yours? Nice looking car. I had one. NEVER AGAIN!"
    But when I do sell it, soon I hope, it will be clean, safe, reliable and everything will work with no warning lights on dash. I don't sell junk to rip people off.
    Doug

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Dearborn, Michigan, USA
    Posts
    110

    Default

    Lock cylinder assy. returned and re-coded to my spare key= $90 incl shipping. Having install problem, though. With cable installed key won't come out. Remove cable, key slides out easily. Steering lock OK. I'm doing something wrong. Won't recommend California locksmith who did work yet, until sure work was done correctly.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Dearborn, Michigan, USA
    Posts
    110

    Default

    See thread "Ignition lock problems? Read this, Save money!" for source for ignition lock cylinder re-code and replacement/installation info. VERY PLEASED with service from "Premier Locksmith" Very highly recommended! $90 including shipping is a BARGAIN!!! Sent new, Volvo replacement lock cylinder assembly supplied by previous owner, but unfortunately with wrong key code for my car, to Elliot at Premier Locksmith in South San Francisco. Took about a week door to door, now works flawlessly with my keys, FOB, remote start, etc. Heck, I would even recommend sending a good, used, salvage yard lock cylinder out for re-code over the big bucks squeeze from the dealer! My local Volvo dealer wouldn't even order the way overpriced part unless I left the car, (est. 10 days!), and they installed lock at 1.5hrs at $125hr. I swapped out lock in my driveway in about 30 minutes while drinking a beer

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