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Thread: 2.4t runs awfull no codes but runs

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    1,990

    Default

    "had a engine light ever since that work was done" - hmmm....

    Makes me think the work was not done correctly. I've done the T-belt on both of my P2 cars, it's not easy, and since we're deep into diagnosis on yours, and we've eliminated several possible factors, I would not assume that previous work was done correctly...

    It may be the VVT, I could be wrong on that, but being off a tooth on the T-belt could cause this too, and given the history, I would start with the timing belt...
    Current Fleet:
    2006 Corolla (kid's car - 108K, Conti Eco Contacts, Castrol Edge 5W30)
    2005 MB S600 (63K, M1 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (165K, Nokian WR G2, Pennzoil Ultra 5W30)
    2002 V70-T5 (143K, IPD bars, Bilsteins, Extreme Contact DWS, Mobil 1 5W40)
    1992 MB 300E (Sportline - 123K, Nokian WR G2, Edge 5W40)
    1990 4-Runner (V6, 4WD, mild lift - 239K, 31" BFG AT KO, Edge 10W30)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemount spares, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    20

    Default

    Well I first cheked timing marks and even though they looked dead on I took it loose and moved the exhaust cam back one tooth both directions and each time I rotated engine and there is no way that it would work or at least be close to its mark by moving it. I put it back and checked again and drove it no change. It's just so close! I can feel it trying to go, and if I let back on the boost it starts surging forward like it wants to go but too much gas and it just kinda bogs. And there again turbo is red. So I'm done. I am going to a dealer I don't have the lockout tools for the vvt hub ( if that's my problem ) and I would just like to pay at this point. I'm pretty exhausted on this car. I usually don't get beat but I don't want to buy tools for this car unless they would do muiltiple cars. The moon roof leaks too and after adjusting it, that too failed no matter the adjustment I can see it dripping in this car just hates me!

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    20

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    Need again. I found out that the original owner said it ran worse after leaving the dealership. So I decided to order the special tools to realign the cams and vvt hub, but the directions are confusing. Anyone have experience in setting the timing with the lock out tools? Maybe you can break down what exactly has to be done with the hub. One step says to turn the cam pulley clockwise all the way to the limit stops then another step says to leave the cam gear Bolts in the middle of the slots. Then another says to let the hub turn counter clockwise and to hold it and to tightens he cam gear bolts any light shed on the process would be greatly appreciated.t I was hoping that they got the timing off when they did timing belt

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Sammamish, WA
    Posts
    1,257

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    Never done the VVT adjustment myself. Here are the VIDA directions in case it helps

    2002+

    https://www.box.com/s/eb780fac1702b002af55

    1999-2001

    https://www.box.com/s/a7e72ee33784a89b25fb
    (6/2013)
    2001 V70XC 120k mi 23mpg
    2011 Toyota Prius Model2 34k mi ~52mpg in summer!
    SOLD 2001 V70 T5 ASR 132k. 4/11/2012
    http://freewebs.com/howardsvolvos/

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    20

    Default

    Does one know when the vvt hub itself( exhaust gear) is bad. I thought someone I saw said you could see that the timing was off if had right scanner but I was wondering if there is physical problems that could be noticeable mine has the spring tension. Just don't know reset timing and still turbo is hot and car Boggs bad

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    1,990

    Default

    You don't need the VVT hub locking tool...I've done it twice without that...look, this job isn't easy, but it's a matter of precision, and care, the timing marks are hard to see...

    I still believe your valve timing is off...I don't think that belt is on there correctly...the fact that it started running poorly after the dealer did it, means that the belt was installed incorrectly. The fact that you've done it twice, and the turbo is still red, means that the belt is still incorrectly installed...by at least one tooth...if not two...

    I find your posts difficult to understand...for example, what timing did you "reset"?? the ignition timing is automatic...the valve timing is based on the pulley relationship and how you put the belt on...

    Pics of the timing marks would help.
    Current Fleet:
    2006 Corolla (kid's car - 108K, Conti Eco Contacts, Castrol Edge 5W30)
    2005 MB S600 (63K, M1 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (165K, Nokian WR G2, Pennzoil Ultra 5W30)
    2002 V70-T5 (143K, IPD bars, Bilsteins, Extreme Contact DWS, Mobil 1 5W40)
    1992 MB 300E (Sportline - 123K, Nokian WR G2, Edge 5W40)
    1990 4-Runner (V6, 4WD, mild lift - 239K, 31" BFG AT KO, Edge 10W30)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemount spares, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    1,990

    Default

    Adjusting the moon roof won't help leaks much...make sure the body drains are clear...compressed air is one method...
    Current Fleet:
    2006 Corolla (kid's car - 108K, Conti Eco Contacts, Castrol Edge 5W30)
    2005 MB S600 (63K, M1 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (165K, Nokian WR G2, Pennzoil Ultra 5W30)
    2002 V70-T5 (143K, IPD bars, Bilsteins, Extreme Contact DWS, Mobil 1 5W40)
    1992 MB 300E (Sportline - 123K, Nokian WR G2, Edge 5W40)
    1990 4-Runner (V6, 4WD, mild lift - 239K, 31" BFG AT KO, Edge 10W30)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemount spares, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    20

    Default

    When I say I "reset the timing " I just mean took belt off and tried realigning all the marks with the lock out tools. Now that I now have them I'll use them. Does the vvt hub need to be locked in all the way to its clockwise position? Is that the end goal after everything is aligned?(marks) I too still believe that timing is off that's why I am curious how does a car act when the vvt hub is bad? Your experience has been very helpful. The moon roof leaks in at the front seal to roof area I watch it drippy in

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    20

    Default

    I have set the Vvt hub and timing marks with lockout tools
    I made sure Vvt is preloaded all the way clockwise and set my belt
    And lock all fasteners down. So I remove all
    Lock tools and rotate by hand to recheck marks and after one
    Revolution my marks line up on front of engine(timing gears)
    But the exhaust cam groves at the back of engine is not horizontal
    So I lossen exhaust cam gear bolts and all the preload is gone I can rotate
    Hub clockwise again. Does this mean the vvt hub is bad? It should hold its preload ? I think this is why my timing is off

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    1,990

    Default

    I am struggling to follow your narrative...

    What is "exhaust cam grove" (sic)?

    Where, in replacing the timing belt, do you fiddle with the VVT and "preload"? I've not had any reason to do so...

    You've loosened the exhaust cam gear bolts??? Then all bets are off on the timing...

    What resource are you using to guide you through this?
    Current Fleet:
    2006 Corolla (kid's car - 108K, Conti Eco Contacts, Castrol Edge 5W30)
    2005 MB S600 (63K, M1 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (165K, Nokian WR G2, Pennzoil Ultra 5W30)
    2002 V70-T5 (143K, IPD bars, Bilsteins, Extreme Contact DWS, Mobil 1 5W40)
    1992 MB 300E (Sportline - 123K, Nokian WR G2, Edge 5W40)
    1990 4-Runner (V6, 4WD, mild lift - 239K, 31" BFG AT KO, Edge 10W30)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemount spares, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

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