2.4t runs awfull no codes but runs

[lwilliam22]

Well I added some motor flush and ran it a good 30 minutes. And got it good and warm and drained oil. The motor had good oil pressure warm(200deg) idle was 30 psi and would revv up to 70 psi easy. So good. But I drained oil and pull oil filter canister and there was some sludge in bottom and the oil looked some what metallic ( like metal flakes) and I wash it out and saw some little metal flakes. And when te car was wrm I got it to rattle steady at idle. So ii figure there is some damage somewhere. I'm going to pull pan and check rod caps. But would bad bearing cause the performance issues? Maybe metal gunk clogging the vvt hub? Causing my p0014 code? Or the affected engine component before the vvt hub causing bad oil pressure after? And body have a oil flow diagram Wonder why I have good oil pressure unless it looses pressure after the gauge port? Just think out loud I'm sure a lot will be answer once I rule out the lower end bearings and such

[Astro14]

Did you rev it up with motor flush in it? That alone can kill the bearings, depending on flush viscosity (most of them are kerosene...)...That's why I am NOT a fan of flushing, everyone wants a quick fix, but dislodging gunk inside a neglected engine nearly always kills it by plugging something up, and the viscosity drop caused by the solvents can be fatal to the bearings...Kreen is engineered to avoid that...and slowly dissolving gunk over time usually works, but few people have the patience...

I don't think the VVT would cause the significant power loss you're noticing, some loss at higher RPM perhaps, but I think you've got multiple issues...

I would start by addressing basic engine condition...and if it's knocking, you've got a bearing clearance problem...and the metal flakes are a very, very bad sign...there should never be flakes big enough for you to see, microscopic metal bits that stick to a magnet...that's one thing, but if they're big enough to see, it's likely that you've got major damage.

There is a small screen on the VVT oil inlet that could be plugged up with sludge/debris...easy enough to pull the solenoid and check...

Time to pull the pan and check the main bearing and rod bearing clearance...I don't know the spec on this engine, but generally, it should be about .001", so get a set of plastigauge strips from NAPA and take a look...

If the oil pressure is good, there's hope...I too wonder why you've got good pressure with a knock, if the pressure is low downstream from the pump, it will be low at the port as well...

[lwilliam22]

Well the multiple issues. I Do have. It has the the surging idle and every now and then the gas pedal doesn't work and it just idles. I suppose he etm is the cause. It does the white label. But I still would think even with bad bearing damage it would still run normal just rattle like crazy. I guess I was looking for a quick flush before I drained everything. The oil was metallic lie and I only found one little flake. And the oil filter had nothing but hard sludge deposits "fine) so I'll pull o morrow and check bearings. The original owner that I bought it this way said they took it to a shop and they wanted to pull transmission to check flexplate for rattle. But I've pulled starter and checked flexplate and the rattle is in oil Pan I'm pretty sure. Ocourse I'm not so sure of anything at this point

[lwilliam22]

Well I pulled pan and looked at every rod bearing and all look well no excessive wear. I'm amoung the belief that the vvt cam hub is at fault. I'm just about positive the timing is the issue and have heard of the cam phaser causing rattles. I'm going to put back and take to Volvo dealership and just pay them to do it or at least tell me whats wrong

[billr99]

Well I pulled pan and looked at every rod bearing and all look well no excessive wear. I'm amoung the belief that the vvt cam hub is at fault. I'm just about positive the timing is the issue and have heard of the cam phaser causing rattles. I'm going to put back and take to Volvo dealership and just pay them to do it or at least tell me whats wrong

You should be getting a code if the VVT and/or the overall timing is out. Not to say you couldn't have rattles though as long as the timing was in spec. I assume you have ruled out the easy stuff like a shot bearing in the water pump, alternator, etc.?

Good luck,

Bill

[lwilliam22]

You should be getting a code if the VVT and/or the overall timing is out

I do get the p0014 cam over advanced. But the rattle is in the engine almost like mid engine. ( probably mains). But not sure I put it back together and ran and it's like it doesn't want to do anything but idle until it get alittle warm. And every now and then it will backfire through the intake and bogs down and will eventually rev up and act somewhat normal. I'll drive and it will just bog and somewhat fall on its face when trying to use turbo. Also I back up my drive way a couple times and tried to gunn it to see if it would take off. And just that little bit made the turbo get hot and glow red

[BOOSTINHARD]

William, you have to check your timing again. Your timing has to be retarded and causing your spark plug to ignite when your exhaust valves are just opening causing the flame to go right to your turbine wheel, this is why your turbo is glowing. Rally cars do this for their anti-lag setups only on decel but its not O.K. to do all the time like your car is doing, and not O.K. to do on a turbine wheel thats not designed for it.

Pull off your timing cover and take a picture of your cam gears lined up along with your crank shaft. That would be step number one. But that's just me, looking at as much work you have done so far this should be simple for you.

Like I said, your exhaust cam has to be retarded or there has to be a reason why your timing is retarded.

Oil pressure wont have anything to do with a glowing turbo, if you didn't have any oil running to your turbo, it wouldn't last 5 mins.

[Astro14]

I'm with the most recent poster. After going back through this thread, I think your cam timing is way off.

Ignition timing is electronic, done through the crank angle sensor. It can be fine while your cam/valve timing is AFU.

Valve timing is done through the timing belt, with a slight modification through the VVT. But the VVT is slight, and won't cause what you're describing.

You haven't mentioned when you changed the timing belt, but in your first post, you say it's new.

It's in wrong. One of the cam pulleys is off. That's the only explanation for why this thing runs so bad...

Pull the covers and re-align the marks. Then you'll see where you need to adjust/fix that timing belt.

[XC70XC]

I'm with the most recent poster. After going back through this thread, I think your cam timing is way off.

Ignition timing is electronic, done through the crank angle sensor. It can be fine while your cam/valve timing is AFU.

Valve timing is done through the timing belt, with a slight modification through the VVT. But the VVT is slight, and won't cause what you're describing.

You haven't mentioned when you changed the timing belt, but in your first post, you say it's new.

It's in wrong. One of the cam pulleys is off. That's the only explanation for why this thing runs so bad...

Pull the covers and re-align the marks. Then you'll see where you need to adjust/fix that timing belt.

It does make sense. Read somewhere that the alignment of the timing mark and the belt is crucial.

[lwilliam22]

Ok thanks so much for the input. I will do that. I checked it twice but this is my first Volvo. I've been use to domestic brands. Well the previous owner had the transmission and timing belt done at 96000 miles and I bought it with it not running at 113600 miles. I thought this would be a easy fix. They told me that it ran but started rattling and a shop told them it was the flexplate. I didn't like that so I thought it would be easy. They did tell me that they had a engine light ever since that work was done. So I wonder if it was the p0014 and it's ran bad the 8000 miles or so that they had the work done. And the work was all done at a Volvo dealership. 4000$ bill he gave me the ticket. I too believe the timing was an issue because it was running so lean since my plugs were bright white. But the vvt can adjust timing as much as +20 deg to -20 deg is that not enough to throw off . Causing my hard starts and bad running conditions ?and my rattling/ knocking