2.4t runs awfull no codes but runs

[lwilliam22]

I've done a lot and am about to go crazy trying to find why this car won't run to its full potential. I have recently pulled oil pan and cleaned sludge and the vent passages( as they were clogged) replaced all the pcv system and found vacum lines disconnected but the car still tries to run with the boost trying to creep in as in I can feel as though the car is getting boost but fighting itself and will buck and jerk when trying to feather it. But if I just drive very gentle with almost no boost it seems fine except for the pause in between gear changes ( brand new full replacement transmission 8000 miles ago) car has 104000. I will get the p0014 cam code. After a good drive the turbo is glowing red like its about to melt back to molten metal! I've replace the vvt slynoild and the oil pan seals. I do notice that I have the issues with the etm but that's a different issues( I think) I have heard the motor rattling/knocking on occasion new timing belt but I've checked the mining and it's spot on. Any ideas ? Is it possible the earrings worn out causing bad oil pressure? I have not got any messages. Any help would be awesome

[drnukeit]

Im new to volvos. But i have had 3 turbo cars. Have you checked the exhaust( cat, oil linez to turbo, tubing for the exhaust)? I had a car act the same, i found a bad cat, bent exhauast pipe that restricted flow, and an oil line was plugged. I fixed all and the car was great afterward.

Like i said, im new to volvos. Just thought i would throw in whats worked for me.

[howardc64]

After a good drive the turbo is glowing red like its about to melt back to molten metal!

Are you serious or just figuratively speaking? There are plastic and rubber pipe on the turbo air intake and exit... If metal was glowing red, these would surely melt.

[lwilliam22]

Thanks for the feedback I too suspected cats and removed the exhaust( via cutting it ) no difference. Yes it glows le bright red as in you can even see it on a sunny day. It's just the exhaust side. I too am surprised by the hoses. They must be high temp neoprene or something. I've been doing a lot of reading amoungst the Volvomforums. And have come to the possible idea that my oil pressure is low. Causing the p0014 cam timing fault code which would make the timing jump around. (exhaust timing) causing the turbo to get hot from not being able to release pressure "in cam time". Causing the irrattic jerks and pauses. Maybe? I've seen some topics on the oil pressure relief valve. In the oil pump anybody with anything similar? Before doing my oil pan reseal what convinced me to do it was I could see air bubbles in oil as though it was foaming from air. Maybe this caused cavitation in oil pump?

[Astro14]

Oh my, I am not sure where to start...first, though, I doubt you've got low oil pressure, that turbo would likely be gone with those temps if you had low pressure...Glowing cherry red turbo is likely the result of bad exhaust valve timing - or engine running very lean...

Cam phasing is a good place to start, but I would begin by ensuring that the MAF is working properly, and that the 02 sensor is in range (diagnostic tool)...I think you've got a mixture problem...

Incidentally, removing the cat can cause the car to run much worse and the turbo to get even hotter - it was designed with a certain amount of backpressure in the exhaust...and removing it without compensating (larger injectors, etc...) can cause problems...

And get a known good gauge to check your oil pressure, I suspect it's fine, but on heavily sludged engines - there can be sludge inside the oil pump pickup and that causes starvation...shouldn't affect running (unless it siezes up...) but worth knowing it's OK. The Oil Pressure warning on the dash is just an idiot light set for something like 4 PSI...

[billr99]

I didn't see it, but you are getting a CEL, right? I'd recommend getting a DiCE scan, if you haven't already. Volvo-specific codes might point you in the right direction. Many times, red-hot turbos are a result of dumping too much fuel, so cam positioning as well as O2 sensor functions would be a good place to start. With that said, however, you've done a fair amount of work on the car that requires the removal of a lot of stuff in the way of the true task. Have you re-checked all your work in regard to all the various hose (vacuum and ventilation) and wiring connections. Sometimes it is the simple things, easily overlooked, that are creating the hard-to-sort problem. Again a DiCE scan might help you out here better than a OBD2 scanner.

Good luck,

Bill

[lwilliam22]

Some good points on the turbo and oil pressure saving it. I have already replaced the Maf sensor. And ran unplugged. No change. I have rechecked my work numerous times and found one line off I forgot to put a band clamp. But i
Didn't help. The only code I've ever got is p0014. It takes some key cycles. It will eventually come on. After my drive yesterday I noticed the slight knocking on low idle. Raise it on my lift and could here bottom end knock not loud but it was there. So that's one reason I'm concerned about oil pressure. I plan on checking pressure with gauge but I don't get a light. I did clean all the carbon deposits I oil pick up and whole pan. So I'm concerned about the oil pump. But I have a scanner ( OTC dererminator) what should o2 be reading? It's weird It will start hard( like out of time cranking. Kinda of violent sounding) and I'll cycle the key and then it's starts. Also sometimes I have no accererator pedal take takes cycles of key too. Thanks so much. If eel like the fix is so close. It's driving me crazy.

[Seamus]

P0014 is a timing code. Something like cam system over advanced or whatever. Did you have the timing belt replaced recently? If not, check the exhaust cam position sensor, and the vvt solenoid

[lwilliam22]

Just checked my oil pressure mechanically it's running at 70psi cold at idle and would go as high as 80psi revved to 3000rpm. After it warmed it dropped to 45psi at idle and would jump to 60psi revved. In my books that's pretty dang good. While its idling I can hear a knock deep in engine. From underneath it sounds like its either a rod( my guess) or main. It's pretty faint and I don't hear it when revved. But I figured that if it was bearing clearance issue I figure the oil pressure would be low. Unless the location of the oil test port factors in. And suggestions ?

[billr99]

Just checked my oil pressure mechanically it's running at 70psi cold at idle and would go as high as 80psi revved to 3000rpm. After it warmed it dropped to 45psi at idle and would jump to 60psi revved. In my books that's pretty dang good. While its idling I can hear a knock deep in engine. From underneath it sounds like its either a rod( my guess) or main. It's pretty faint and I don't hear it when revved. But I figured that if it was bearing clearance issue I figure the oil pressure would be low. Unless the location of the oil test port factors in. And suggestions ?

Might check the spec as it looks to me like that oil pressure is high. There is a high end to correct oil pressure and I can't recall it being as high as you say you have.

Good luck,

Bill