Transmission additive? Help trans locking in gear?

[Brown Dog]

Any one care to post their experiences with transmission additives?
I am doing another drain and fill tomorrow and I think I will add some Sea Foam Trans Tune to my gearbox. I have had good results with the Lucas Stop Slip/Tans Fix before in older Mercedes. I used it in two 1967's a 230 and 230S, I know they were a little different style trans but it smoothed them out. One had flaring and one had a harsh engagement, both of which sometimes occurs in my XC70. Also used in a '79 240D which had no issues and never developed any either.

I am thinking about the sea foam because the ipd website sells it and I assume if they are selling it they maybe have tested it or at least its compatible with the 3309 type trans fluid.

I have a bottle of the Lucas stuff but I am hesitant to put it in this car. I read on a site about oils that it had made some peoples cars (not specifically Volvo's) shudder.
My thinking is this stuff is too slick for the surfaces to lock up all the way. I am already having a little bit of not going into full lock up issue, but the slickness of it could help the other moving parts. (Just my theory from previous use).

Also on the lock going into full lock up thing... Sometimes it does sometimes it doesn't, about 85% of the time not. It seems to try and lock up and bounce back and forth between lock and unlock over and over. I also have another post on this from a few weeks ago and I think I have come to a better understanding of what it trying to do.

On its good days its a pleasure to drive, the pedal is very touch sensitive like it just floats along and is often switching down and up through gears smoothly. On the off days it shifts to fifth gear asap and doesn't want to downshift, I have to force it to unlock by nudging the gas so it will stop shuddering and as my speed levels out the rpm's drop low and I feel the Shuddering vibration, so step on the gas and repeat.

Driving me crazy, It feels like work to drive this car..

Car is a 2001 V70 XC, 134,000 miles.

[howardc64]

I've used it in my 01 V70 T5 and 01 V70XC. No problems with 3309. I also felt confident due to iPD's willingness to sell it.

My T5's tranny had some some bad shifts after improper magnifine filter installation that limited the fluid flow. Seafoam transtune smoothed out some bumps. But adaptation got rid all the bad shift adaptation memories and car shifts like new.

You might try this

1/2 bottle of transtune in old fluid. Run it for a couple of days. Flush with new fluid
Get an adaptation done.

Check your lower torque mount bushing to make sure that is not broken. Replace if so before the adaptation.

[Brown Dog]

Thanks for the info and quick reply, I noticed my transmission shifts great for a day or so after I do the drain and fill and then it slowly goes back to its old ways. I'm wondering if after a couple days it's mixing with the remaining fluid and contaminating so much it breaks down, or maybe I have low pressure from gunk build up in there. I hope I don't break loose too much junk with the Trans Tune.

BTW, any thoughts on Trans Tune vs. Lucas Fix/Stop Slip?
Is the Sea Foam a thick substance like Lucas or more the consistency of AT Fluid?

[howardc64]

Thanks for the info and quick reply, I noticed my transmission shifts great for a day or so after I do the drain and fill and then it slowly goes back to its old ways. I'm wondering if after a couple days it's mixing with the remaining fluid and contaminating so much it breaks down, or maybe I have low pressure from gunk build up in there. I hope I don't break loose too much junk with the Trans Tune.

BTW, any thoughts on Trans Tune vs. Lucas Fix/Stop Slip?
Is the Sea Foam a thick substance like Lucas or more the consistency of AT Fluid?

Transtune is red color like ATF and very thin. Viscosity is like gasoline/water. No experience with Lucas.

Try complete flush per gibbons method so no more old fluid.

Maybe something is causing your ATF to break down quickly? Read this

http://www.aa1car.com/library/atf.htm

When I had my flow restriction problem (crimped hose), the new ATF degraded pretty quickly. I presume it was high temps caused by the restricted flow. One symptom I had was slipping out of lock a couple of time during small hill climbs. Had to remove the restriction, flush with new ATF, add transtune, do adaptation to make it shift normal again.

[Brown Dog]

Definitely seems to be a heat related issue also. Doesn't do this when cold. It really acts crszy if I get stuck in traffic for a while. I've been thinking its over heating. After the car sits for a short time it dives normal again, or it seems ok as long as its cold out and i keep moving and it has plenty of airflow.

[howardc64]

I have heard and seen failed tranny on an XC work perfect when cold. ATF thins when hot and internal pressure channel leaks gets worse and affects hydraulic pressure necessary to shift the mechanical gears. Search and you will read a lot of people do a short test drive when buying a used XC only to find out shifting problems when in traffic.

Try flush, transtune and adaptation. If that doesn't cure, might be looking at more expensive stuff like valve body replacement or tranny itself.

[Brown Dog]

Would you recommend draining out the 8 ounces of ATF before adding the trans tune or would it be safe to just add it? I'll be doing the 30 min. drive then draining it out.

[howardc64]

Would you recommend draining out the 8 ounces of ATF before adding the trans tune or would it be safe to just add it? I'll be doing the 30 min. drive then draining it out.

Not sure if it will make much difference. But better remove 8 ounces to be safe. Not sure how one can drain 8 ounces precisely. Seems possible to lose a lot more than 8 ounces via quick removal of the drain bolt. Removing the ATF cooler tube at the top might be the easiest way to remove a little bit of fluid. Per Gibbon's method, remove the green clipped hose, install a 3-4 feet of clear hose into a bucket/5 gal empty oil container, Filling 1-2 foot of that hose (run the engine (turns the transmission fluid pump) for only a couple of seconds) is probably 8 ounces.

Drive it for an hour or more. Takes 20min just to make ATF hot.

[billr99]

Not sure if it will make much difference. But better remove 8 ounces to be safe. Not sure how one can drain 8 ounces precisely. Seems possible to lose a lot more than 8 ounces via quick removal of the drain bolt. Removing the ATF cooler tube at the top might be the easiest way to remove a little bit of fluid. Per Gibbon's method, remove the green clipped hose, install a 3-4 feet of clear hose into a bucket/5 gal empty oil container, Filling 1-2 foot of that hose (run the engine (turns the transmission fluid pump) for only a couple of seconds) is probably 8 ounces.

Drive it for an hour or more. Takes 20min just to make ATF hot.

To get my gearbox level right on, I use a bit of plastic tubing and a 50ml syringe that I got at a vet's office. Put the tubing down the dipstick hole (the tubing being well cleaned obviously) and draw out as much as 50ml at a whack per the graduations on the syringe. Works great. I've also used a MightyVac before but the syringe with its 50 ml capacity seems to work a bit better with this gearbox.

Cheers,

Bill

[MacNoob]

I don't think I'd use any 'stop slip' product in this trans. The unique part about the AW trans is the slipping lockup for the torque converter. That's what requires the special 3309 fluid.

Read about slipping lockup here:

http://www.sonnax.com/publications/t...urers-part-one