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Thread: Ball Joints -- the Other Wheel

  1. #1
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    Default Ball Joints -- the Other Wheel

    As you may recall, we had quite a discussion about the failed balljoint on my 2007 XC70 (wheel detaching at 40 mph). Much of the commentary was quite helpful, even if a few remarks were less than pleasant. I certainly appreciated all the comments.

    Unfortunately, our moderator, Forkster, closed that thread. There are close to 5,000 views there. Wow, 5,000 views over a ball joint. I had some back and forth PMs with Forkster and we both learned a little more about each other. He is a terrific guy, even if his notion of the First Amendment is not the same as mine! But like Mayor Bloomberg with Occupy Wall Street, at some point good order must re-appear from the chaos.

    In any event, after I got my car back (and after I found some time), I took the car to my mechnic to check the other front wheel. Sure enough, he found some play in the wheel (it moved about an inch back any forth).

    As a precaution, we replaced some parts. Specifically, we replaced the ball joint and a metal arm -- i believe it is called was an upper tie rod (it was loose too) and the ball joint had some play in it too, but was fully intact.

    I took some comparative picture, which I share below (n.b.: the rubber hood was fully in tact, but i cut it away to take the pictures). The two ball joints below are the exact same age (5 years old) and were on the same car, and subject to the same conditions. Yet there is quite a difference, and yes, quite a bit of corrosion on the one that failed.

    Let me know what you think (and please, please no more comments about 1. noises I should have heard (there were no noises) and 2. how my mechanics failed me (he didn't!))

    ps. How can I remove the ball from the socket? Do you need some special tools?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Ball Joints round 2 038.jpg   Ball Joints round 2 036.jpg   Ball Joints round 2 033.jpg   Ball Joints round 2 024.jpg   Ball Joints round 2 018.jpg  

    Last edited by Barinthus; 11-15-2011 at 07:10 AM.

  2. #2
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    Default a few more pictures

    a few more pictures
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Ball Joints round 2 008.jpg   Ball Joints round 2 014.jpg   Ball Joints round 2 021.jpg   Ball Joints round 2 026.jpg   Ball Joints round 2 030.jpg  


  3. #3
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    Default link to last thread


  4. #4
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    So, I take it that you see now what we all were trying to tell you. The ball joint that you dissected is what I would call more "normal". That is, the boot was intact, perserving the grease. Just because of that, that does not mean that the joint is immune from normal wear which apparently you and your mechanic detected and thus your efforts to change it out. But the shiny surface condition of the ball and the uncorroded portion of the socket which was covered by the boot is what would normally be expected.

    The joint that failed obviously has severe pitting with severe wear of the socket. Without seeing the corresponding boot in its form as it was when the joint failed, we can only speculate as to the cause of the pitting and severe wear. My many years of experience tell me that it's likely cause was a torn or dislodged boot as evidenced by the rust and pits, but that is not the only possibility. I suppose it is possible that the ball was defective in not having a sufficient amount of hardening but that would not explain the rust. That is only explained by a torn or loose boot.

    I will let other speculate on the abilities of your mechanic at this point, as well as your ability to detect noises and such. Without driving the car in that condition, one cannot tell exactly. We can only say that in a normal situation which some of us have seen a few times, those cases exhibit characteristics that would have enabled detection of the problem prior to failure. That is just the way it is. As you say, in your case this was not evident so we take it as you have stated it. As it is, you have now sorted both joints and the car is back to the way it should be.

    As far as separating a mildly-worn ball joint, I cannot offer a suggestion. They are pressed together in a multi-tonne press. Without having access to a similar bit of kit, you probably couldn't separate them with bashing them which wouldn't really get them apart for a decent examination.

    Cheers,

    Bill
    Western Head, NS CDN

    '02 V70XC (Ash Gray)-331K kms to-date
    '96 854R (Red)-real CDN-spec 5 speed R - gone @250k kms
    '98 V70 -wife's basic, no options wagon - gone @390k kms
    '91 744GL - killed by son @ 220K kms
    '90 744T w/Turbo Plus -killed by son @260K mi
    '78 245 w/4sp-OD -killed by wife @166K mi
    '76 265 w/4sp-OD -just gone
    And a whole tonne of other Euro stuff (VW (7), SAAB (5), Land Rover (4), Audi (3), BMW (2), Porsche (2), Mini (2), Opel (1), MB (1), MG (1), Sunbeam (1))

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by billr99 View Post
    I will let other speculate on the abilities of your mechanic at this point, as well as your ability to detect noises and such. Without driving the car in that condition, one cannot tell exactly. We can only say that in a normal situation which some of us have seen a few times, those cases exhibit characteristics that would have enabled detection of the problem prior to failure. That is just the way it is.
    Thanks for the comment.

    As for the above quote, I knew you could not resist!

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barinthus View Post
    Thanks for the comment.

    As for the above quote, I knew you could not resist!
    Oh well, what can I say?

    Cheers,

    Bill
    Western Head, NS CDN

    '02 V70XC (Ash Gray)-331K kms to-date
    '96 854R (Red)-real CDN-spec 5 speed R - gone @250k kms
    '98 V70 -wife's basic, no options wagon - gone @390k kms
    '91 744GL - killed by son @ 220K kms
    '90 744T w/Turbo Plus -killed by son @260K mi
    '78 245 w/4sp-OD -killed by wife @166K mi
    '76 265 w/4sp-OD -just gone
    And a whole tonne of other Euro stuff (VW (7), SAAB (5), Land Rover (4), Audi (3), BMW (2), Porsche (2), Mini (2), Opel (1), MB (1), MG (1), Sunbeam (1))

  7. #7
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    Default

    There is a dramatic contrast in the condition of the two joints...the wear, the rust, heavy pitting, and distorted ball in the first are all missing from this most recent replacement...and this recent one was worn out...

    The outer tie rod end is a commonly replaced part...on all cars, but esp. on these...and I am glad your guy did replace it...

    The more rough the roads on which the car is operated, the faster these components wear out...metro Boston is no picnic...not Southern CA...so, I am not at all surprised that there are worn components...

    But the dramatic difference between the two joints illustrates just how far gone that left joint was...no wonder it failed...worst I have ever seen is one like the right side that was just replaced...

    I am glad that you posted the new pics...what a contrast!

    Current Fleet:
    2006 Corolla (kid's car - 108K, Conti Eco Contacts, Castrol Edge 5W30)
    2005 MB S600 (63K, M1 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (165K, Nokian WR G2, Pennzoil Ultra 5W30)
    2002 V70-T5 (143K, IPD bars, Bilsteins, Extreme Contact DWS, Mobil 1 5W40)
    1992 MB 300E (Sportline - 123K, Nokian WR G2, Edge 5W40)
    1990 4-Runner (V6, 4WD, mild lift - 239K, 31" BFG AT KO, Edge 10W30)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemount spares, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by billr99 View Post
    ... Without seeing the corresponding boot in its form as it was when the joint failed, we can only speculate as to the cause of the pitting and severe wear. My many years of experience tell me that it's likely cause was a torn or dislodged boot as evidenced by the rust and pits, but that is not the only possibility. I suppose it is possible that the ball was defective in not having a sufficient amount of hardening but that would not explain the rust. That is only explained by a torn or loose boot.
    ...
    Another possibility, if the boot was never torn, is that the ball joint was never greased from the manufacturer.

  9. #9
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    Fort Worth Texas or thereabouts
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    Default

    The dissection of the failed ball joint showed it had grease. It was in the long thread.
    No grease would have been a galled ball and the failed joint had a pitted ball that occurs from rust.
    Last edited by cattlecar; 11-15-2011 at 06:31 PM.

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