2004 XC70- Key Won't Turn

[SYSWPG]

I have been having the same problem with an '06 XC 70. Using my key, I have had several instances when the key would not turn in the ignition. The wheel was not in the locked position. Whatever I did, whether removing the key and reinserting it, turning the key over, cursing, etc., I could not turn the key. Inevitably, after trying five or ten times, waiting five or ten minutes, the key would finally turn.

Service suggested only using my wife's key. Strangely, I have not had this problem (or perhaps only once or twice) since switching to my wife's key.

[gibbons]

Service suggested only using my wife's key. Strangely, I have not had this problem (or perhaps only once or twice) since switching to my wife's key.

Yeah, BUT, if it's the ignition switch, it's a time bomb. As I said in that thread I did about replacing the switch, I was glad it was 1.5 miles from home when it happened, not 250. Do yourself a favor....

[SYSWPG]

I concur! If there is a service bulletin, does that mean Volvo will pay for the repair even if a car is not under warranty? Just curious—I bought an extended warranty (yeah, I know, I know) when we purchased CPO, and we're still covered under it, so the repair will just cost me the deductible.

[dcandmc]

So I picked up the car from the dealer today, after following gibbons' instructions to get the car running and out of park, and I'm waiting for the new lock cylinder to arrive from Sweden.

Is anyone able to provide VADIS instructions for removing and replacing the ignition lock cylinder?

Thanks in advance.


Edited to add: the dealer told me that doing this repair requires a software update. I hope that's not right, and gibbons did not mention that in his description of a successful repair.

[gibbons]

The piece you will get from Sweden will be that whole big cast metal part, self contained. Just remove the electronic barnacles off the old one, remove it, put the new in, and put he electronics back on. It's easy once you dremel some slots in the screws. I guess you could use a drill and an easy-out, but I am a dremel kind of buy.

No software updates were needed. But nice try on the dealer's part I think they tell people you need a software update if they put new wiper blades on!

[dcandmc]

Update:
I just finished putting in the new ignition lock cylinder. The dealer said that the book time on this repair was 3+ hours, so I saved myself more than $300 in labor costs. The part cost $290.26, which includes 5% sales tax. The replacement lock cylinders get manufactured in Sweden by Volvo to fit the car’s key based on the VIN, so there’s no other supplier. I spent a few more dollars on other stuff, including new bolts to secure the part to the steering column. Like gibbons, I decided not to use the replacement non-tamper bolts that came with the part. Knowing what I know now, I could do the whole thing in way less than three hours, and it’s not that difficult.

Here’s what I learned, and some additional tips to make the job go easier:

-As long as the steering wheel is unlocked and the key is in the ignition, the wheel will not lock up. I drove the car for four days with the bad lock cylinder using a screwdriver to start it as described by gibbons, and initially I was worried about the steering wheel locking. But after I picked up the new lock cylinder and took a look at it, I realized that as long as the key remains in the ignition, even in the off position, the steering wheel will not lock.

-The steering column has quite a bit of range up and down as well as in and out, so take advantage of that. For most of the job, you’ll probably want the column pulled as far out as possible.

-Before you try to remove the shift lock cable from the bad lock cylinder, make sure that the key is in the ignition and turned to the first position. This will move the internal cams so that the end of the shift lock cable can be easily removed (in other words, without breaking something).

-The top part of the steering column cover must be moved out of the way, since the bolt heads that hold the ignition lock in place go down from the top. The top cover is easily detached from the flap under the instrument cluster; there are three clips in the middle and one on each side.

-As gibbons mentioned in his earlier thread, the two electrical connections on the left side need to be moved out of the way to allow access for the Dremel tool. The orange one can just be removed from its black horizontal mounting post and pushed out of the way without disconnecting the circuit, but the green one must be completely disconnected. You’ll also need to remove the immobilizer antenna ring/lighted bezel that goes around the key hole. Depress the clip that faces the driver, and wiggle it off to the right.

-I used blue painters tape to mask stuff off around the bolt heads before hitting them with the Dremel, to protect from sparks and help contain the metal dust.

-I used regular cut-off wheels with the Dremel (part # 409). Make the slots in the top of the bolt heads deeper than you think you need, just be careful not to cut into the steering column support. The bolts are relatively soft metal, and you want as much purchase surface as possible when you are cranking on the screwdriver to loosen them. One of my bolts started to deform, and I went back to the Dremel to deepen the slot. The bolts have blue thread lock on them, so they take quite a bit of initial force to break the lock.

Everything went back together fairly easily. I used just a little bit of blue thread lock on the new bolts to guard against them vibrating loose. The car started right up, and I have no issues with the air bag. The part being replaced is strictly mechanical, so no software update is required.

Thanks gibbons!

[dcassel]

I did Gibbon's proceedure and everything went as described except when I turn the screw driver the engine does not turn over (no cranking). I get the various dash lights and I hear something like a pump go for a few seconds under the hood (fuel pump?) but no cranking. I tried it with foot on break pedal in Park and in Neutral. Key in ignition and turned as much as posible. Any ideas? At least I can move the car now that the shifter works.

dcassel

[dcassel]

I tried again and this time a turned the screw driver with more force. I had not been moving the switch into the spring loaded "start" position.

Now I have to decide if I want to do the switch replacement myself. I am 3.5hours from the nearest dealer. Can any dealer order the switch with the correct key code from the VIN or does it have to be the selling dealer (6 hours away)? Or do they need my key to get the code.?

I guess they need someway to verify that I am the owner.

I will check with the dealers when they open on Monday.

Thanks for all the info gibbons and others.

dcassel

[dcassel]

Got the new key through my selling dealer. They sort of quized me over the phone to make sure I was who I said I was.
Only took 4 days from Sweden, including from dealer to me. $314.00 including shipping.

Left my Dremel at work so tried EZ Out on first screw. Bad mistake! No problem drilling hole in top of screw, but it was so tight that I broke the EZ Out trying to loosen screw. So now I had a screw with a hardened broken EZ Out bit in the middle of it.

Went and got the Dremel. Other screw was easy with slot ground in it by Dremel. First screw was a mess and ended up just about grinding entire head off since broken EZ Out prevented grinding a decent slot. Oh well, live and learn.

Rest went as per plan.

[stupidloose]

Just ordered one for my wifes V70 a couple weeks ago. Do yourself a favor and call these guys. http://http://www.tascaparts.com/par...?siteid=213668 The dealer wanted over $300.00. I ended up getting one for $260.00. Saved me a ton of money for the exact same part from Germany. Make sure you have your VIN# on hand when you order.