Results 1 to 6 of 6
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    347

    Default What Torque wrench?

    I have an 02 with 127k miles on it and it's been good to me. I've decided to keep my beast for another 100K or so. I have to dive into some DIY projects to keep the cost down. I'll be doing everything from PCV system replacement to a new suspension, so I'll need a torque wrench. What wrench do you guys recommend? I have a well stocked tool box, but no torque wrench. I assumed they were nothing special, but given the price they must be made of titanium. Which one (or ones) should I buy? Maybe one in 3/8's and one in 1/2?

    thanks for the input,

    Keith

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Ottawa, ON, Canada
    Posts
    463

    Default

    They are not made of unobtanium alloy , but they are precision instruments, which is why the price is up there.

    Craftsman, Husky, etc will likely service you well.

    Having said that, I dropped $600 CDN on a pair of Norbar torque handles (20-100Nm and 40-200Nm) and 3/8" and 1/2" ratchet-head 16mm spigot attachments. This lets me swap the 3/8 and 1/2 drives between the two torque handles that I have when needed.

    No matter which ones you get, take good care of it, DO NOT drop it, don't let a two year old near them.

    Also, remember that all torque should be applied to "wet" (aka lubricated) fasteners, otherwise friction will cause you to reach the torque value before the proper stretch is reached on the fastener.


  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,118

    Default

    +1 on Ars Gladius.

    I have 3 - 2x Craftsman 1/2" and a 3/8". I use the 3/8 seldom, only for pans and manifolds that I want torqued evenly and fairly modestly. I use the 1/2" frequently...one of them is a dedicated wheel lug wrench...I first used a torque wrench at age 12 when I was replacing the cylinder head on a Cub Cadet tractor (dad was away on business...Mom, bless her heart, indulged me by taking me to Sears and buying it...it's in my kid brother's tool box now...). You can't do serious work without one.

    Craftsman won't kill your wallet...look for a sale and get the two at the same time...
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (126K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (55K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (143K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
    2004 XC90 (235K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-XC (295K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-T5 (225K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Danielsville, PA
    Posts
    107

    Default

    I have craftsmans that seem to work well, a cheap swing arm type that I use for wheel lugs and the like and a better (ie more expensive, dial/click type), both 1/2 and have not needed a 3/8 yet. The swing arm one actually works pretty well and may be considered if the difference in price is an issue, otherwise if your best bet, no matter the manufacturer would be the click type.
    96 850 glt (deceased @260k?)
    02 V70XC 120k (traded)
    09 S80 39k
    10 VW Croutan 17k
    98 Chevy K1500 4x 84k
    67 Pont Lemans convt
    09 Chevy Tahoe PPV

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Maine, Bath
    Posts
    689

    Default

    I have both the 3/8 and 1/2 inch drive, Craftsman torque wrenches, given to me as gifts 30 years ago when I was a kid starting to work on cars, and they have been ultra-reliable.

    They are both the ol' fashun beam type. The smaller 3/8 only goes up to about 80 ft./lbs and is made for smaller finer increment work, whereas obviously the larger 1/2 is made to up to about 110 ft./lbs and made for things like torquing down wheel bolts/

    You can't go wrong with Craftsman, they are guaranteed, and inexpensive.
    However, the are in need of recalibrating after what they've been through (reminder to self). Another option is purchasing the "click" type wrench, which is great for doing a lot of blind work, and with everything packed tightly together on cars these days I'm trying to torque blind half the time. I may purchase a small 3/8 click style (Craftsman of course).

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Canberra, Australia
    Posts
    95

    Default

    Be careful with electronic torque adaptors, like this.

    I'm currently using one, but it's awkward to get into some of the tight spaces on these cars. I may yet get a mechanical torque wrench, and reserve the electronic gadget for calibrating the mechanical one.
    Myzomela http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scarlet_Honeyeater
    1973 164 -> 1974 145+M41 -> 2001 V70XC & 1998 S40 2.0T+M56

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •