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Thread: Leak! Transmission seal on the axle shaft? Diagnosis help pls

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    NZ
    Posts
    50

    Default Replacing transmission-axle

    When replacing transmission-axle seal at the passenger side will tranny oil flow out when I slide out the axle?
    Any advice about changing it?
    Last edited by andybbrown; 05-19-2011 at 12:24 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    NJ
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    336

    Default

    On the passenger side. NO. Drivers side, tiny bit. Just pry out the old seal ( used a long flat head screw driver and rubber mallet to pop it out) and use a large socket or something else to gently tap the new seal in evenly....Since you have it all apart, check your Control Arm, Idler arms and Axle etc. It is easier to do it all at once rather than keep taking it apart! trust me.......

    Have you removed an Axle before? If not i can give the easy step by step directions and I think I have link I can find somewhere with pictures....

    I took the RF axle and seal out of my car on Saturday. Replacing them this Saturday. Already did the LF. Axle seal replacement is the same process.

    Let me know..
    2013 Subaru Outback - charcoal Grey, Eyesight Collision Avoidance 25k
    2007 XC70, Barents Blue, Charcoal Leather 130k
    2000 V70XC Silver, Charcoal, 160k - GONE!
    2001 Saab 9-5, Grey, Charcoal 160k
    1978 Bitchin' Chevrolet Z28 Camaro - NEW pending install - 383ci SB Dyno'd at 452HP 462FT/LBs Torque

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
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    NZ
    Posts
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    Default

    Hi 8pack.
    There were some instructions floating around a forum website about removing the control arm bolts and letting that part of the wheel hang, meanwhile removing a couple of bolts somewhere else (something with a cap on it?). Then you slide the axle out just an inch or two?
    I haven't done it before. I want to do it the easiest fastest way.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    336

    Arrow

    Here are the steps. I find disconnecting the spindle from the Strut is way easier than disconnecting and pushing down the control arm....The axle needs to come all the way out to get at the seal....it is long! The "cap" being referred to is the Bearing cap that holds the carrier bearing in place. Look under there and follow the axle in towards the transmission, it is a big round donut around the axle clamped in place with a steel bearing cap. It is a big piece of metal, not a tiny "cap".

    1.
    1. Remove wheel - 5 bolts
    2. Remove Caliper...Hang caliper with wire out of the way or put on small bucket so as not to stress the brake line. - 2 Bolts
    3. Remove rotor by removing wheel alignment pin or caliper retaining bolt (10MM) - you may need to give it a good wack with a RUBBER mallet to get it loose. I drip PB Blaster behind the rotor using the lug nut holes as the access point and let it sit awhile before I try and break it free - 1 Bolt
    4. Disconnect Tie Rod from Spindle/Hub. - one nut (you need something to hold the bottom of connecting bolt on the ball so it doesn't spin...if it is really rusty then vice grips, if it is in good shape then a small wrench...they make a tool, but you don't need that) - One nut
    5. Remove bolts holding Spindle/Hub to Strut. Take bottom bolt out 1st that way the spindle does not pivot out on you prematurely. - 2 Bolts
    6. Pull spindle free from strut by pulling out and down.
    7. Pull Hub free of Axle. It takes some wiggling and yahking, maybe some light tapping with a block of wood and hammer. Mine came off easily.
    8. Rotate spindle/Hub Back towards rear of car. Be really careful not to yank too hard on the speed sensor, The wire is clipped up on the strut, I just pull the wire free from the clip to give me more slack.
    9. Now your axle is clear to slide out. Go under the car and remove the 2 bolts holding the carrier bearing cap inplace and remove the cap. - 2 Bolts
    10. Slide the axle out.....just pull on it. the only thing holding it in place was the carrier bearing holder.
    11. Roll under the car with a wide flat head long handled screwdriver and place the flat behind the seal. Tap on the side of the screwdriver handle with a mallet to pry the seal out and it will pop free.
    Here is a link with some pictures. He did it differently and it is why I think it took him 3 hrs. you should be able to get it out in less than an hour assuming you don't have to wrestly with siezed bolts. a 1/2 hr is totally realistic. One piece of advice, use a 6 sided socket on all the bolts not a 12 sided one. if the bolts are siezed at all the 12 point will spin on you. Also have a breaker bar handy. There really are no "Tricks" except maybe to put PB blaster on all the bolts the night before to make it easier. The diffeences between how i did it and he did is:
    • he did not remove the brake caliper and rotor (maybe easier in theory, but it is only 2 bolts holding the caliper on )
    • he dropped the control arm. I found getting the control arm free is a real B%$. I did it on the left side as I was replacing the control arm anyway and wouldn't do it that way again.
    • He removed the entire Carrier bearing holder and not just the cap...YOU ONLY NEED TO REMOVE THE CARRIER BEARING CAP if you do it my way. There is plenty of free play to get the axle out.
    http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...pic.php?t=5896


    Easy as pie. 12 Bolts and 1 nut including the 5 lug nuts. I suggest taking the wheel off the night before and spraying all the bolts with a bit of PB Blaster to work overnight including behind the Rotor as noted.......Good luck and let me know how it goes. Putting my axle back in tomorrow....
    Last edited by 8pack; 05-20-2011 at 12:56 PM. Reason: update
    2013 Subaru Outback - charcoal Grey, Eyesight Collision Avoidance 25k
    2007 XC70, Barents Blue, Charcoal Leather 130k
    2000 V70XC Silver, Charcoal, 160k - GONE!
    2001 Saab 9-5, Grey, Charcoal 160k
    1978 Bitchin' Chevrolet Z28 Camaro - NEW pending install - 383ci SB Dyno'd at 452HP 462FT/LBs Torque

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    NZ
    Posts
    50

    Default

    Thanks heaps 8pack
    I'll be doing this tomorrow. Will follow these instructions. It all sounds okay.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    NZ
    Posts
    50

    Default Man, love this seal

    My drive shaft seal may be concerning, but I am urgent about this second nipper-snapper to strike me,
    [IMG][/IMG]
    While cheaking into the leak at the seal at the trans, see pst below, this became more prominant. drip, drip,
    Can I undo the bolt, which I have broken in as much as possible, maybe replace with instant alloy or a washer behind that bolt?
    I can't tell whtn kind of oil that is. It is between trans and bottom of engine, side of sump,
    Last edited by andybbrown; 05-22-2011 at 01:44 AM. Reason: Can't tell the oil

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Portland, Oregon
    Posts
    15

    Default

    hi,

    did you figure out what that 2nd problem was? i have a leak seemingly coming from the lower bolt hole from where the bevel gear bolts to the trans. looks very simmilar. thanks for any help.

    joe

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Asheville, nc
    Posts
    36

    Default

    I have the same leak as well. It appears to be atf leaking and not gear oil. What is the culprit?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Portland, Oregon
    Posts
    15

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Heath View Post
    I have the same leak as well. It appears to be atf leaking and not gear oil. What is the culprit?
    after looking at it, all i can think is there is a seal on the trans side thats leaking. i guess i have to take the bevel gear off, or at least seperate it from the trans and replace it. i just wish there were some sort of repair manual to tell or show me how many bolts and so on... i guess thats better than my first thought of the case being cracked inside the bolt hole.

    if someone has pics. or something to help. please let me know. thank you!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Asheville, nc
    Posts
    36

    Default

    I actually pulled the lower 2 bolts to check for fluid on the ends. There wasn't any. I think the oil accumulates there after leaking past a seal above.

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