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Thread: Question: How to clean new R rotor before installation.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Toront, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    120

    Question Question: How to clean new R rotor before installation.

    Dumb question, right ?
    But have to ask as I'm installing new R rotors.

    I know I need to clean the anti-rust oil on new rotors.
    After using brake cleaner there is no oil on those R rotors. But the silver coating is still on, and that is rarely used for other rotors.
    I am not sure whether I need to remove the silver coating or not ?

    Please advise.

    Thanks.

    Howard
    Last edited by haoz129; 05-07-2011 at 03:15 PM.
    2003 XC70, Blue, 198KKm, FL bearing & DIM replaced, no other major issues yet.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Maine, Bath
    Posts
    597

    Default

    That's just a protective rust-proof coating which some manufacturers use.
    You don't need to do anything, except brake cleaner to remove oil/grease as you've done... the coating should stay on, don't try to remove it, however the area the pad rides on will obviously be worn away.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Devon PA
    Posts
    8,123

    Default

    As said, when you burn them in, the pads will burn away the coating
    Remember until you do that you won't have much front brakes!
    (Takes a couple of miles).

    Personally I like to do the 80-20 break in.
    Drive at 80 mph, brake very hard, push hard but don't "stab at them", and let off at 20 moh, DON'T LOCK THEM UP
    Obviously make sure there's no traffic around

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    1,947

    Default

    I have always cleaned the rotor with brake cleaner to remove protective coatings/oil/wax and then bedded in the pads through a series of stops with cooling time in between....I start with the manufacturer's recommendation, roughly: gentle to moderate stops about 50 - 20 MPH, repeated 10X with a good 10 minutes of driving without braking to cool, then step up to heavy (80% of max) stops from 60 - 20 MPH repeated 5X with a good 10 minutes of brake-free cooling. That second cycle can be repeated, just make sure they cool in between and you don't stop the car until the brakes are cool.

    Yeah, you'll smell the pads getting hot, but that's the point, not cooking them, but bring them up to operating temp to get the transfer of film to the fresh rotor surface in a controlled, even manner. That's why I will always turn the rotor or replace the rotor if replacing pads - you need a fresh rotor surface for proper bed in of new pads. I have found that best case, rotors last through 2 sets of pads and often are thin enough to warrant replacement after the first set of pads. I've got ceramic pads on the XC (and the T5) now - and the rotor wear is minimal...(I mic'd them last tire rotation...)

    Here's a good listing of the various brake pad manufacturers recommendations on bedding in pads as well as rotor installation:

    http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/....jsp?techid=85

    I've got over 45K on the latest set of pads/rotors and over 50% of the pad thickness remaining. The brakes perform very well: smooth, positive braking and the rotor surfaces look smooth & new...no ridges. I attribute that to a good bed in and the even wear that follows...
    Last edited by Astro14; 05-08-2011 at 07:01 AM.
    Current Fleet:
    2006 Corolla (kid's car - 108K, Conti Eco Contacts, Castrol Edge 5W30)
    2005 MB S600 (63K, M1 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (165K, Nokian WR G2, Pennzoil Ultra 5W30)
    2002 V70-T5 (143K, IPD bars, Bilsteins, Extreme Contact DWS, Mobil 1 5W40)
    1992 MB 300E (Sportline - 123K, Nokian WR G2, Edge 5W40)
    1990 4-Runner (V6, 4WD, mild lift - 239K, 31" BFG AT KO, Edge 10W30)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemount spares, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Toront, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    120

    Default

    Thanks RockitShip, Jim and Astro, .

    100% understand. I will not try to remove the coating then.

    Sure, I will follow all the advices to bed the new rotors.

    Will report how it works.

    Howard
    2003 XC70, Blue, 198KKm, FL bearing & DIM replaced, no other major issues yet.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Toront, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    120

    Default

    My new rotors are done.

    Drived but bedding not 100% completed. When touch I can still feel the machined grooves.

    Anyway nice rotors they are.

    Thanks again for all the wise men here.

    Howard
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails R rotors 01.jpg   R rotors 02.jpg  
    2003 XC70, Blue, 198KKm, FL bearing & DIM replaced, no other major issues yet.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    1,947

    Default

    Those look great!
    Current Fleet:
    2006 Corolla (kid's car - 108K, Conti Eco Contacts, Castrol Edge 5W30)
    2005 MB S600 (63K, M1 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (165K, Nokian WR G2, Pennzoil Ultra 5W30)
    2002 V70-T5 (143K, IPD bars, Bilsteins, Extreme Contact DWS, Mobil 1 5W40)
    1992 MB 300E (Sportline - 123K, Nokian WR G2, Edge 5W40)
    1990 4-Runner (V6, 4WD, mild lift - 239K, 31" BFG AT KO, Edge 10W30)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemount spares, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Toront, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    120

    Thumbs up Update on R brakes.

    Friends,

    Have R brakes on 4 corners more than a year now. Come back to give some udpate:
    - These huge Brembo calipers, 13" rotors and pads are superb. Only a little push of the paddle I feel the XC is draged to slow.
    - Never feel fading or lack of braking power.
    - Always worry about car followed me is not able to stop when I brake hard.
    - Only concern is the sqeaking during light braking. These are high performance pads and use more metal to provide power. Plus I didn't use the window steel shim on back of the pads. The noise has never been cured and last 1 year. Seems even more break in time won't help. Finally I install the steel shim and it's fixed. Now only a few occasion it squeaks.

    Love them to death,

    Thanks.

    Howard
    2003 XC70, Blue, 198KKm, FL bearing & DIM replaced, no other major issues yet.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    1,947

    Default

    Now you know why that shim was part of the package...those are still great brakes! Nice...
    Current Fleet:
    2006 Corolla (kid's car - 108K, Conti Eco Contacts, Castrol Edge 5W30)
    2005 MB S600 (63K, M1 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (165K, Nokian WR G2, Pennzoil Ultra 5W30)
    2002 V70-T5 (143K, IPD bars, Bilsteins, Extreme Contact DWS, Mobil 1 5W40)
    1992 MB 300E (Sportline - 123K, Nokian WR G2, Edge 5W40)
    1990 4-Runner (V6, 4WD, mild lift - 239K, 31" BFG AT KO, Edge 10W30)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemount spares, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Sydney Australia
    Posts
    45

    Default silver coating on rotors.

    Hi Haoz129 nice looking rims and brake rotors you got there,
    any way by trade I'm an Electroplater done it and still doing it.

    Regarding that silver coating you mentioned I'm pretty sure that is zinc coating on the rotors to stop rusting especially around the hub area, manufactures would normally put some type of coating to protect the zinc coating from any moisture corrosion during transit and shelf life-appearance of the product.

    And were the brake pads are in contact with the rotor that silver/ zinc coating will get stripped off, where as the rest of the coating will be intact you may find that it will be discoloured that's only due to the heat generated by the braking action.(show us some pictures of the rotors with out the rims)

    Cheers

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