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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Devon PA
    Posts
    11,409

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    Not overkill at all
    I would NEVER go longer with dino oil on a Volvo
    I do a 4-5K SYNTHETIC oil changes in 5 cylinder Volvos. It makes a HUGE difference in the health and life of your breather system and your engine overall.
    Knowing what I know now, I would never use conventional oil and I wish that I had used synthetic in my earlier cars but especially in my older Volvos that I bought years ago.
    All emails please use: jrl1194 (at) aol.com

    2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak, 112K miles. My daily driver and GORGEOUS
    2000 V70R wife's. Won't sell, now at 148K miles !! and still (almost) perfect.
    2000 S70 GLT SE with 29,000 miles!!! A time capsule, V70R front bumper, Volans, etc. SOLD!!! (I Will regret selling this!)

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    California
    Posts
    122

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    How about those High Mileage Oil? Manufactures are recommending this type of oil for cars have more 75K miles on the clock. I think many of us have cars over that milestone by now. Does anyone have any experiences with this type of oil?

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Devon PA
    Posts
    11,409

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rdweathers View Post
    What type of oil is recommended for this vehicle.... Owner manual is not with vehicle.
    I have a brand new, in plastic, (including the black leather cover), a complete owner's manual set
    (All the books).

    I have no use for it, (long story) I just paid $55 for it (wholesale)
    You can have it for that, retail is about $70-75 for this set.
    PM or email me if interested
    All emails please use: jrl1194 (at) aol.com

    2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak, 112K miles. My daily driver and GORGEOUS
    2000 V70R wife's. Won't sell, now at 148K miles !! and still (almost) perfect.
    2000 S70 GLT SE with 29,000 miles!!! A time capsule, V70R front bumper, Volans, etc. SOLD!!! (I Will regret selling this!)

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Devon PA
    Posts
    11,409

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by swimNdrive View Post
    How about those High Mileage Oil? Manufactures are recommending this type of oil for cars have more 75K miles on the clock. I think many of us have cars over that milestone by now. Does anyone have any experiences with this type of oil?
    High mileage Mobil 1 is supposed to be OK but don't use the EXTENDED mileage oil and actually I just started using that in mine
    All emails please use: jrl1194 (at) aol.com

    2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak, 112K miles. My daily driver and GORGEOUS
    2000 V70R wife's. Won't sell, now at 148K miles !! and still (almost) perfect.
    2000 S70 GLT SE with 29,000 miles!!! A time capsule, V70R front bumper, Volans, etc. SOLD!!! (I Will regret selling this!)

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    1,442

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by swimNdrive View Post
    How about those High Mileage Oil? Manufactures are recommending this type of oil for cars have more 75K miles on the clock. I think many of us have cars over that milestone by now. Does anyone have any experiences with this type of oil?
    The main feature of high mileage oils is the addition of a seal conditioner additive. This is essentially oil with a stop leak additive already added. So what do these additive do? They make seals swell potentially stopping or preventing oil from leaking past bearing seals. If you have an oil leak, this type of oil may potentially stop it, as would replacing the worn seal. If you don't have a leak, why use it? Well, I suppose you might prevent a leak that was going to occur at x-miles in the future, but you have no idea if that will or won't happen. What will happen though, is that all your seals will swell, wear to the new, swollen condition and will then start to leak if you ever switch back to an oil that doesn't contain the seal conditioner. In other words, instead of taking time to fix a worn seal the right way, you apply a quick fix and potentially set up a myriad of problems for the future. There are some circumstances under which you might want to try the high-mileage oil, but in general, fixing the worn seal and sticking with a quality syn/semi-syn oil with appropriate changes is the way to go.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    California
    Posts
    122

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by sjonnie View Post
    The main feature of high mileage oils is the addition of a seal conditioner additive. This is essentially oil with a stop leak additive already added. So what do these additive do? They make seals swell potentially stopping or preventing oil from leaking past bearing seals. If you have an oil leak, this type of oil may potentially stop it, as would replacing the worn seal. If you don't have a leak, why use it? Well, I suppose you might prevent a leak that was going to occur at x-miles in the future, but you have no idea if that will or won't happen. What will happen though, is that all your seals will swell, wear to the new, swollen condition and will then start to leak if you ever switch back to an oil that doesn't contain the seal conditioner. In other words, instead of taking time to fix a worn seal the right way, you apply a quick fix and potentially set up a myriad of problems for the future. There are some circumstances under which you might want to try the high-mileage oil, but in general, fixing the worn seal and sticking with a quality syn/semi-syn oil with appropriate changes is the way to go.
    Thanks for the information and explanations. I don't have much leak in the seals at this time. The only leaks are PCV related, such as small leaks on the turbo intake pipe connecting area. The other day I was changing oil and saw a small drip of oil on the turbo assembly body. I will do the PCV job soon so that will be taken care of. So in this case, I don't think I will use the "Hight Mileage" oil anytime soon.

    My car is mostly in SF Bay Area. It is not as cold as you guys up there. I have been using 5W-30 because it was on sale at Costco. That said, should I consider "thicker" oil as the mileage goes up, such as 10W-40? I have read about for older cars, using "Thicker" oil will prevent the leak and the engine will burn less oil. Is that true for our cars? How is our Volvo PCV system reacts to "Thicker" oil?

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Muscat, Oman
    Posts
    27

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    But at 'swinndrive' I want to ask this from senior members I have heard that "thicker oil takes longer to get to the rings and valve parts, causing more wear, but less oil to be burnt"

    For my case I will take a sincere advice from 'sjonnie' for using 0W40 that will give my high mileage 145k miles XC the most protection all year around even though it's pricey.

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,116

    Default

    "Thicker" "thinner"... this all twisted.

    All XXw30 are the same weight at operating temp. That's what the last number means. The first number 5wXX, 0wXX determines the weight at start up. But here's a clue: all oil is over 100 times thicker at 32F than at 200F. They all thin out with heat. In fact, and I've said this before, Mobil 1 0W30 is THICKER at operating temperature than Mobil 1 10w30. So, the 0w30 is thicker at operating temp but pumps more quickly when cold. Read through the oil rant and the BITOG reference. This subject (oil) has more myths, more BS, more misconceptions than anything else on cars....speaking of which....

    Thicker oil takes longer to get to rings? Yes, but in this case thicker/thinner is the first number. Causing more wear but less oil to be burnt? That's one of the most inaccurate things I've ever heard...oil is used/burnt because of wear. If you use oil that causes more wear, then more oil will be burnt. Period.

    So, you want less wear on start up? Go with a 0wXX. Want an oil that thins the least in very high heat like the OPs country? Xw40.

    Best of both worlds for him? Mobil 1 0w40. Look at my signature...take a look at what oil goes in the twin turbo V-12...an engine that costs twice as much as a new V70Xc. I run a 5w40 Mobil 1 in my T5 because I got it on sale for less than $1/QT, and I have the 5w30 Pennzoil Ultra in the XC because I got a similar deal, otherwise I run a 0w40 or 5w40 synthetic.
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (126K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (55K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (143K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
    2004 XC90 (235K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-XC (295K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-T5 (225K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Decatur, TN
    Posts
    84

    Default

    I remember several years ago reading an interview with a retired racing crew chief. He was asked about oil types- weight, brand, syn vs. non-syn, etc.... His reply was that "the two most important things to know about oil: 1. Have oil in your motor and 2. change it frequently".
    2002 V70XC 260k+ miles

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Pacific NW
    Posts
    364

    Default

    I think one of the other "features" of "Extended Mileage" motor oil is an increased detergent additive ostensibly to get/keep older engines cleaner. One of the problems with lower quality oil are the viscosity extenders. The cheap lubes use a polymer that breaks down and causes the sludge problem, the viscosity also drops when the VI extenders die. Frequent changes before breakdown, or better quality oil alleviate that. I think the larger problems, from my experience of having UOA's done on my vehicles, are fuel dilution, and on my XC nitration. Short trips, cold weather, all contribute to fuel dilution, this problem is very difficult for any oil to fight.
    PDX-Vancouver, USA

    2005 XC70 140,000

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