Transmission removal for ring gear replacement.

[olevolvo]

I took of the top connection and sensors. The shift selector housing didn't come apart like it shows on resources. The whole thing had to come off, just leaving the shaft.

The wire connector that looks like it goes to the b4 servo area didn't want to come apart and I didn't want to risk damaging the sheathing on the edge of the casing opening so I followed them the opposite direction to the connection going to the harness.

I'll hang the engine and start taking apart the bottom tomorrow.

[olevolvo]

Been pecking away at this. Took the bolt out of the steering joint. It appears to me that I'll have to take the hydraulic lines off the steering gear to drop the frame. Down to angle gear, flywheel bolts and frame bolts.

[howardc64]

I think you might be able to leave the PS steering lines untouched. The rack is bolted onto both subframe AND the engine mount facing the firewall. It will hang on the engine mount if you don't remove that bolt. As for the PS lines running along the passenger side of the subframe, I think you can just pop those out of their clip holders. There might be another couple of bolts holding it to the subframe around the rack (can't remember) but I think you might be able to drop the subframe without dropping the PS rack or its hydraulics.

Here is the write up I did replacing the rack. It might give you some tips on where its all bolted.

https://app.box.com/shared/suto3d1yqj

If you do disconnect the hydraulic lines from the rack, the pressure + return line fittings have o-rings on them and seems quite impossible to get a good feel during reinstall. Best not to disconnect if you don't have to.

[olevolvo]

[QUOTE=howardc64;168981] It will hang on the engine mount if you don't remove that bolt.

That sounds good to me. The "how to" in resources shows the bolt to be removed from the joint between the shaft and the steering gear but did not elaborate on the lines. But the "how to" also has them using the special transmission jack that allows the subframe to be partially lowered. I'm dropping the whole thing.

Thank you for the great photos and the advice Howard! I'll keep plugging. Getting tired of driving the old diesel ford.

[olevolvo]

Dropping the whole sub frame that is. I plan on lowering the engine at an angle and sliding the transmission off. So I should still have to remove the steering shaft so I don't bend it. Or can the tranny slide off without angling the engine down ?

[howardc64]

Maybe you already saw this post on transmission removal? Sounded like the engine/tranny didn't need to be tilted downwards. Probably enough space if the subframe comes off.

http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showth...136#post161136

When I pulled my 01 VW Golf tranny (also for a ground down ring gear) from the bottom, the car needed to be jacked up pretty high because I lowered it onto a transmission jack. This member drop it down from a cherry picker onto a creeper... this would require less height.

Get your torque converter from these guys. I found most tranny shop use these guys for rebuilt torque converters. I think all they do is torque converters. They don't sell to public so you'll have to find a local distributor. There should be one within 50 miles that provides the rebuilt TCs to repair shops. My VW TC was about $200 with $20 core just FYI.

http://www.gopnh.com/about-Precision-of-New-Hampton.cfm

The VW torque converter's output shaft is keyed... the key has to slip in the right slot inside the transmission input. If not, things gets smashed on reassembly. Not sure if the Volvo is the same, something to watch out for. As a precaution, you can measure the distance between some spot (say the ring gear) on the torque converter against some spot on the the tranny housing to make sure proper installation depth before mating it back to the engine.

You will need to keep the engine suspended when the subframe is out. If you use a transverse lift bar (I have one from Harbor Freight), you might need 2 to prevent the engine from turning inside the engine bay (front and rear engine lift points are somewhat diagonally angled). If you look at Volvo's transverse lift bar, it basically has 2 bars for this reason.

[howardc64]

Just looked at VIDA directions for transmission oil pump seal ring replacement, TC need to be removed to get to this ring.

The TC removal/reinstall and seal ring replacement directions appear identical to the VW that I worked on (01m transmission). The output shaft of the TC (VIDA calls it the throat) need to be pushed in far enough and VIDA shows a way to measure for proper depth. I'm guessing the throat must have tabs/keys on it that must set properly into a slot. The TC need to be firmly connected to the tranny so these tabs/keys does that. Again, if they don't set into their proper slot, there will be internal damage during reinstall as everything gets compressed due to lack of space. I think you have the VIDA directions... if not, I can forward. Here is the 01m transmission direction on TC seat depth. VIDA looks very similar

http://kansascitytdi.com/01m-torque-...stalled-depth/

Here is what the AW55-50 TC looks like. I see the slots are on the TC's throat so the key/tabs must be inside the transmission. This is opposite of the VW 01m transmission but never the less, need to be properly mated so TC's throat can turn the tranny. BTW, since this tranny was used in many cars, make sure you get the TC for the Volvo. This link shows there are different PNs for different cars.

http://www.gopnh.com/Transmissions.c...n=%20AW55-50SN

It also appear from the picture the ring gear is separately bolted to the torque converter so you are in luck! No need to replace the whole TC unless you want to due to mileage and potential wear. I know SONNAX made/sold ring gears for the 01m transmission I worked on but it need to be welded on. Again, probably need to locate a distributor.

Another place to watch out for on the VW tranny is when you mate the tranny/TC to the engine, you want to make sure the torque converter hasn't slipped outwards. I had no trouble but it could happen. The way to check is before reattaching the nuts that tighten the TC against the engine drive plate, make sure the bolt head can move a little in the drive plate hole. This would prove the TC hasn't slipped outwards with the key/tap no longer engaged in their slot. If it slipped out, it the bolt head would jam tight against the drive plate and unable to move at all. Read the next to last paragraph on this link on checking converter installation depths after mating the tranny with the engine. I'm guessing it applies to this Volvo as well.

http://kansascitytdi.com/01m-transmi...-installation/

Probably should also replace the oil pump seal ring. Use a Volvo part if you can... the VW had aftermarkets and I read some people had leaks. I went to Homedepot to look for various PVC pipe connectors to use as a drift to tap in and seat the seal ring.

Hope this helps when you get there. BTW, I also took my time to chip away at this job on the VW. Lots of wires, cables, hoses, axles etc... to remove and you have the added AWD systems. When everything was ready, taking the tranny, replacing the TC+seal ring and putting it back took only 2-3 hours. Then I took my sweet old time to reattach everything

[olevolvo]

Thanks again Howard. You are correct that the TC and the ring gear aren't mated.TC replacement is a tough call.

The clutches seem fine and the fluid is still red and does not smell burned. I'm quite sure the VB could stand to be replaced. It has been a problem, but I don't pound on it.

I used extensions and went through the passenger wheel well to get to the hidden angle gear bolt. (spent a half hour trying to get a socket and ratchet from below before I figured it out. Did the TC/RG bolts standing up through the wheel well too.

Down to removing the engine and transmission frame mounts and the engine transmission casing bolts. I'd be losing big money on this job if I were getting paid to do it. ( I'm losing money not getting paid)

[olevolvo]

Got the last casing bolt out today. It's the one by the flywheel sensor, in a tough place. It took an hour to find the right wrench to put on it. Ended up using a boxed end to break it loose and the open end to turn it out. That took another hour. Now to pull it off. Sorry, but the instructions on resources lacks details. But it was good enough to give a fool some direction.