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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
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    NJ
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    2

    Default Rear brake calipers

    I am starting a rear brake pad replacement on my wife's 2008 xc70. How do you retract the caliper to fit over the new pads? I tried using a c-clamp, but it didn't burge. The car is currently in pieces. Can someone tell me how to finish this job?
    Thanks.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    South Wales UK
    Posts
    1,901

    Default

    Hi,
    You might just have a slight 'problem'!
    If the car has got the EPB then I understand that the pistons have to be retracted electronically, which makes DIY impossible!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Danielsville, PA
    Posts
    107

    Default

    go to Swededspeed and check out the 07+ S80 forum. FWIW the parking brake has to be retracted by turning torx nut out and then the caliper spins in...
    96 850 glt (deceased @260k?)
    02 V70XC 120k (traded)
    09 S80 39k
    10 VW Croutan 17k
    98 Chevy K1500 4x 84k
    67 Pont Lemans convt
    09 Chevy Tahoe PPV

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Montreal, Canada
    Posts
    75

    Default Be Careful

    I remember last year when my brother's mechanic installed my new tires on the XC70, he told me to be very careful with this electronic parking brake when changing the pads. There is a little trick to perform (not sure what anymore) but I remember that he warned me to be careul or it could be a costly mistake.
    2009 XC70 T6 Black Saffire / Expresso interior
    2008 Audi TT Roadster Ibis White / Brown Baseball Optic interior

    Past Volvos:
    2000 V70XC Venitien Red (sold at 185,000km)
    1994 850 Sportwagon repainted Safran orange (sold at 242,000 km)


  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    2

    Default

    Thanks for the input. I do have the electronic parking brake. I may end up having the dealer install the rear brake pads. Is there anything special on the front? What size wrench do you need th remove the front calipers?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Scotland
    Posts
    82

    Default

    WRT Front Pads - it's been written-up here:
    http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=114564

    On the Rear's - I was planning to buy one of these (http://www.sealey.co.uk/PLPageBuilde...iredresults=16) - when the time comes...
    2009 xc70 SE Geartronic
    2012 Land Rover Defender "Puma" 2.4
    BMW K1200RS

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    South Wales UK
    Posts
    1,901

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MartinK View Post
    On the Rear's - I was planning to buy one of these (http://www.sealey.co.uk/PLPageBuilde...iredresults=16) - when the time comes...
    Looking at that link it will only "Re-set the Service Light" it will not retract the brake calipers to allow new pads to be fitted.

    Sorry misread the details, but considering the rear pads usually last for more than 50,000miles I would take the car into a local garage and ask them to fit new pads when the time came as I think it would be a hell of a lot cheaper than £215!
    Last edited by XCovlov70; 05-03-2011 at 07:51 AM. Reason: re-read link

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Fort Worth Texas or thereabouts
    Posts
    400

    Default

    Fronts are not special. Rear can be done in the normal way after the EPB apply "screw" is backed off. The screwjack is backed off electrically with VIDA or you can removed the motor assembly and then turn the screwjack manually with a triple square bit or with a TX30 as it is not a high force to move it. If you do the screwjack retraction with caliper still on rotor you can easily tell wheich way to turn the screw on back of piston chamber. If you turn it 6 or more turns and it hasn't already gotten tight you are going the right way. If you turn it a few turns and it binds (and rotor doesn't turn now) you have applied it and you need to reverse your rotation. Once you know you are going the right way turn it un til it binds a little and you are now ready to move the piston normally as you would on a normal caliper in order to fit new pads.
    Once you are done, re-attach the motor assembly, apply the foot brake several times to move pistons out as normal, and then apply parking brake twice. The system runs the screwjacks out until it sees a high motor current and no motor motion via a sensor in each motor. when you release brake it moves motor opposite direction for a short period (less than a second).
    The communication tool commanded method moves screwjacks off until motor current goes up (motor grunts due to screw being bound). Resetting via the tool runs the PB motors until they apply, backs off and repeats the apply and release again.
    There are a few Euro models that use this EPB system.
    on this system DO NOT TURN THE PISTONS! There is no provided slot to turn the piston and turning the piston is no assurance that screwjack will release. Turning piston in its seal is a good way to make caliper leak.
    Last edited by cattlecar; 05-03-2011 at 07:56 AM.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    445

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by XCovlov70 View Post
    Sorry misread the details, but considering the rear pads usually last for more than 50,000miles I would take the car into a local garage and ask them to fit new pads when the time came as I think it would be a hell of a lot cheaper than £215!
    Where did you get that info? Ours only lasted 22,000 miles (almost all city driving), and even the tech there said that these cars have a rear bias for their brakes. Most modern cars seem to be going that way, not sure why. I've heard it's because they are trying to prevent nose-diving in the car when braking. It seems against physics, since most of the braking force you'd think is done by the front b/c of the weight transfer. My current 08 BMW 335's rear are wearing out much faster than the fronts, and exact same thing happened with our 05 Mazda 3. Rears were gone when there was over 50% left on the fronts.
    09 XC70 T6 - Sold

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    South Wales UK
    Posts
    1,901

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Lotus99 View Post
    Where did you get that info? Ours only lasted 22,000 miles (almost all city driving), and even the tech there said that these cars have a rear bias for their brakes. Most modern cars seem to be going that way, not sure why. I've heard it's because they are trying to prevent nose-diving in the car when braking. It seems against physics, since most of the braking force you'd think is done by the front b/c of the weight transfer. My current 08 BMW 335's rear are wearing out much faster than the fronts, and exact same thing happened with our 05 Mazda 3. Rears were gone when there was over 50% left on the fronts.
    On our last 3 cars I have had over 50K out of the rear pads and the last XC70 was sold at 34,000miles on the clock with around 50% of the 'meat' still on the rear pads.
    We did some long hard runs with that car but then again I don't hammer the cars I own but I do look after them, and take the wheels off to make sure all is OK underneath.
    Like I said in another post 'Look after your kit, and it will look after you'

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