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Thread: car pulls to right when braking...help pls!!

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    montreal,qc
    Posts
    43

    Default car pulls to right when braking...help pls!!

    Hi everyone, well it's been some time now that i've been having this problem and can't seem to fix it....

    When driving (at higher speeds) and apply the brakes the nose of the car pulls hard to the right and it scares the crap outta me! if i let go of the wheel when driving the car runs straight (no pulling)...it only happens when braking..i guess i feel it more when at higher speeds...

    what i've done (repairs/maint) since i've noticed this:

    had left hub changed (not oem) had to add shims too, and did alignment
    had a man-hole bang under the front left tire area (twice..long story)
    i bled the brake system twice (once me once dealer)..they said calipers where ok.
    had front left control arm changed (not oem)
    this week had all pads and rotors changed (not oem)
    and had them (not dealership) check calipers..said it was okay

    I don't know what else to do or to look at??? any ideas?
    i have mags on for the winter on my nokian hakka studs.
    anything? bent/cracked rim? bad steel belt in tire? calipers??? maybe had bad alignment?
    thanks
    fabs

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Windy Manitoba
    Posts
    392

    Default

    Lots of possible causes.

    A bad brake flex line did it to my old Nissan pickup. Took awhile to figure that out.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    montreal,qc
    Posts
    43

    Default

    MAC..if there where a kink in the line would it be noticable? or it gets damaged on the inside? also? would i need to change both front ones? or just the damaged one? i guess in this case the left side?
    I know that the left side had the hub changed, maybe when they took off the caliper the line got pinched?
    thanks
    fab

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Windy Manitoba
    Posts
    392

    Default

    the lines can get damaged inside, not visible outside.

    Not saying that's your problem, but it is one thing that was missing from your list!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    2,340

    Default

    Two reasons a car will pull under braking:

    1. suspension geometry changes due to loose parts.
    2. unequal braking force applied at the wheels

    Let's look at 1. You just replaced the left control arm but not the right? I would start the hunt right there - if one is shot, chances are the other on is too. Under braking, the arms shifts, changes toe value and voila! it pulls to the right. This one will generally be like an on/off switch as the failed bushing allows the arm to move.

    It's also possible you have a stuck caliper or restricted hose. Dealer "checked them"? How? looked them over? are all the pads wearing evenly? Did they operate smoothly when applied? That's worth looking into again...and yes, flex hose can fail internally, so it is like a dissected artery, with internal layers blocking flow (in some cases, causing the hose to act like a check valve). This one will be more progressive in nature, with the pull being proportional to braking force.

    But I would start with the suspension first...
    Current Fleet:
    2006 Corolla (kid's car - 140K, Eco Contacts, Castrol Edge 5W30)
    2005 MB S600 (76K, Michelin AS3, M1 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (179K, AltiMax RT43, Pennzoil Ultra 5W30)
    2002 V70-T5 (165K, IPD bars, Bilsteins, Conti PureContact, Mobil 1 0W40)
    1992 MB 300E (Sportline - 145K, Yokohama Avid, Liqui Moly 5W40)
    1990 4-Runner (V6, 4WD, mild lift - 252K, 31" BFG AT KO, QS 10W40 syn)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemount spares, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    montreal,qc
    Posts
    43

    Default

    so can tire pressure make that much of a difference? i'm at work but went out to look for fun...the left side was at about 31 LBS and the right side was up to about 34 LBS..i didn't drive my car yet, but do you think this little mount would cause that much of a difference and cause the problem????
    thanks
    fabs

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    2,340

    Default

    That slight tire pressure difference might cause a slight pull, but you would feel it all the time, not just under braking...

    I would take a good look at suspension, I suspect a failed control arm bushing...
    Current Fleet:
    2006 Corolla (kid's car - 140K, Eco Contacts, Castrol Edge 5W30)
    2005 MB S600 (76K, Michelin AS3, M1 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (179K, AltiMax RT43, Pennzoil Ultra 5W30)
    2002 V70-T5 (165K, IPD bars, Bilsteins, Conti PureContact, Mobil 1 0W40)
    1992 MB 300E (Sportline - 145K, Yokohama Avid, Liqui Moly 5W40)
    1990 4-Runner (V6, 4WD, mild lift - 252K, 31" BFG AT KO, QS 10W40 syn)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemount spares, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Springfield, MO
    Posts
    12

    Default Same issue here with pulling..

    Got the same issue here. Just got the car in March and nothing but a lemon from the start. Basically they shouldn't have sold it and I souldn't have trusted even a well known dealer (If you live in Southern MO/NorthAR don't buy from Reliable). I had the diff. & AWD colar fixed in the first month (took 3 weeks to fix) - paid $302 under warranty), I changed both control arms & ball joints ($230+), have the parts and need to change strut mounts & bearings ($120), new lifetime alignment ($170), and I changed front pads and rotors three weeks ago ($274). Well after getting the car aligned on Wed. I now defentally pulls to the right. (note: pad slides were greesed, everything was properly torched, tire pressure checked, firm pedal) Noticed when I changed the pads two weeks before that the boot on the piston had a little knick in it. Would that make an issue? I even noticed that when I did the pads one side had less pad than the other. Could it be that one is providing more pressure than the other?

    Would I need to get the right side caliper changed or do I need someone to prof. bleed the brakes? thanks
    Last edited by soup070; 06-05-2011 at 01:02 PM.
    2006 xc90 AWD 2.5T 7pass. Black 208hp - for snow & oh so slow
    2009 Pontiac G8 GT Stryker Blue 385hp - for show & hell it will GO

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    2,340

    Default

    If you had uneven pad wear from the previous set of pads, that is a strong sign that that particular caliper has a problem...like sticking...

    You can grease the pad slides (any grease, but very, very lightly to prevent contamination) and you should grease the caliper slides with a silicone grease (to prevent the rubber seals from causing sticking).

    Bleeding is not rocket science...if you've done it before and the pedal is firm, they're fine...but take a look at those calipers...
    Current Fleet:
    2006 Corolla (kid's car - 140K, Eco Contacts, Castrol Edge 5W30)
    2005 MB S600 (76K, Michelin AS3, M1 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (179K, AltiMax RT43, Pennzoil Ultra 5W30)
    2002 V70-T5 (165K, IPD bars, Bilsteins, Conti PureContact, Mobil 1 0W40)
    1992 MB 300E (Sportline - 145K, Yokohama Avid, Liqui Moly 5W40)
    1990 4-Runner (V6, 4WD, mild lift - 252K, 31" BFG AT KO, QS 10W40 syn)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemount spares, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Springfield, MO
    Posts
    12

    Default Caliper?

    Just wondering how you decide (after I forgot which side had the pads that had worn more, new pads) which caliper is having problems? Question Im having is it the caliper on the side that is pulling or is that side working "clamping" properly and its the left side that might be pulling slow. I've seen where some have jacked up both wheels and put the car in Neutural and turned the hub with a torch wrench.
    Attached is a photo of the right piston boot with a hole the size of a rice grain. Im thinking it might be the problem, bringing dirt into the piston.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_2681.jpg  
    2006 xc90 AWD 2.5T 7pass. Black 208hp - for snow & oh so slow
    2009 Pontiac G8 GT Stryker Blue 385hp - for show & hell it will GO

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