Step-by-step to temporarily mobilize a paralyzed "stuck key" broken switch condition

[gibbons]

My wife called from the school where she teaches, saying she could put the key in the ignition but only turn it part way to "position I". As such, the car wouldn't start. Great. After searching the internet and talking to the parts guys at 3 dealerships, I learned that it's caused by an internal break inside the keyswitch, and that it's frighteningly common. I was lucky, it was 1.2 miles from my house. I am glad it wasn't in the parking lot of a ski resort or somewhere else like that.

Anyway, here is a pretty easy set of steps to be able to start your car and drive it home (if you can do this, there's no reason to take it to a dealership).

1. Get a #20 Torx driver and a flat screwdriver with a 1/4" wide blade. I am now going to carry these in my car...

2. Remove the three torx screws on the bottom of the cover on the steering column. Pull the cover off.

3. Remove the two torx screws that hold the white electrical switch on the left side of the mechanical switch. Pull the electrical switch free.

4. Remove the shift interlock cable from the right side of the mechanical switch. It's below the green electrical connector. There's a clip on the bottom you depress, then slide it forward and out.

5. Insert the key into the mechanical switch and turn it as far towards position 1 as possible. It doesn't have to go far to unlock the steering. Also, it puts the key's RF identification chip close enough to the RF antenna in the column to read and authenticate it. Gotta do that.

6. There is a rotary connection slot in the face of the white ignition electrical switch you just removed. In the slot is another pin switch to sense that the key is inserted. Put the screwdriver in the slot, deep enough to depress the pin.

7. Turn the screwdriver just like a key, and like magic, the car will start.

8. There is a sliding white plastic piece in the end of the shift interlock cable you just removed. Push it inward into the cable, and it will unlock the shift lever so you can put it in gear.

9. Drive it like you stole it, cuz you just did! But take it somewhat easy. It would be awful to have the key jiggle and re-lock the steering wheel.

10. Get out your wallet, and fork over $300 to have the dealer order a new mechanical switch from Sweden that matches your keys. I suggest also getting a new cable while it's torn apart, they have been known to wear and fail. I haven't looked at the shifter lever yet, but I assume it's also trivial to install once you clear away covers and stuff.

11. Oh, yeah, the mechanical switch is held on by two shear bolts, the heads break off when tightening them so you can't tamper with them. Use an anti-anti-tamper device like a dremel tool or drilled EZ-out to remove them. Get some regular head bolts to put it back together to make it easier to replace the next switch.

Knowing my dealer, if I would have had them pick up the car on a flat bed and fix it for me, it would have been $1,000.

[n00bkiller944]

This is going to be a HUGE help when someone experiences what you just went through.

THANKS!

[Allen]

Great thread.

[BillAileo]

There is a positive side to Gibbons' having a problem ... I learn something worthwhile. Thanks for the write up.

[gibbons]

Update: I ordered my custom correct switch from Waltrip Volvo in TN last friday, it will arrive at my house from Sweden one week later. Wow, that's cool!

So, getting ready to install the switch, I had to remove the old tamper proof (Torx is sheared off) button head screws. I put a disc cutter in my Dremel tool and made slots. A flat blade screwdriver removed them with some effort. Wasn't easy, but they came out. To do the left hand one, you have to remove two electrical connectors going further up in column to make room for the Dremel. As I was getting ready to reconnecting them, I was thinking, "hmm... I wonder if one of these was to the air bag, and I'm about to get a knock-out punch..." So I got out of the driver's seat and reached in from the side to do it They connected without incident. I guess when I get the switch in, I will see if I need a $200 Vadis reset or something cuz I disconnected it.

I am off the the hardware store to get some regular hex head cap screws to put the new switch on. If someone wants to steal my car bad enough to get to that point in the column, they can have it!

EDIT: It works perfectly! Done. Car was down for 9 days total.

[Ocean Racer]

And at the end of the day your wife is happy again
Good work mate !

[gibbons]

It was just in time to drive it 130 miles round trip to my son's engineering graduation. Man, I love that car, even though it's a problem child sometimes. People compare them to Subarus, which is ridiculous. We have an 09 Outback, 05 Legacy, and 95 Legacy, and there is no comparison. Except I haven't replaced any ignition switches on them yet

I was telling my wife about the procedure, and the tamper proof bolts I dremeled screwdriver slots were still in the cup holder. I showed them to her, and she thought I was really manly

[Ocean Racer]

.. She thought i was really manly

hahaha gold

[goingbroke]

Add me to the list for this one. In one month, I've had to rebuild the transmission-$5000, replace a control arm, buy new tires (which doesnt really count, but...), now i have to order this switch and let the car sit in the garage for who knows how long. And now i have to replace my "Volvo for Life" sticker with a "Volvo Ruined My Life" sticker. It never ends.

[gibbons]

On the transmission... you saw the thread on not removing the 5 sided bolt on top, right? Wow, that one could have gotten me! I remember thinking bad thoughts about the engineer who spec'ed a 5 sided "plug" on a transmission fill hole

My car floats all over the road at 82K miles. But from what I can tell, ordering the right new struts is somewhat of a mystery, even for the dealer!