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Thread: Ball joint removal/replacement help...

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    North Florida
    Posts
    90

    Exclamation Ball joint removal/replacement help...

    I'm replacing my front control arms on my MY04. I got them off without a hitch and want to replace the balljoints while I have it apart. I see on the new ones a spline around where it goes up into where it seats. Is there a shade tree way of getting the old balljoint out of its position without a special Volvo remover/installer tool? I'm waiting for any suggestions.

    Thanks all.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Nova Scotia, Canada
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    1,438

    Default

    According to Vadis, you need a slide hammer with an adapter that screws onto the ball joint stud so you can pull it out of the knuckle. You also need to clean the hole out in order to install the new ball joint, plus there is a special tool to draw the new on in to a point and then tap it the rest of the way (with special tool) in with a hammer. I gotta tell you, if this were me (licensed tech for 22 years), I would NOT attempt this without the right tools. My worst fear would be cracking the steering knuckle trying to get the old joint out, PLUS you can't heat the knuckle up either for the same reason (it's aluminum). I would gladly pay a tech at Volvo to do this job. That way you're not up schit creek in your driveway if you destroy the knuckle. For the sake of 1 or 1 1/2 hours' labour I would rather pay that than gamble with the knuckle!!

    Dave.
    Our Most Probable Fate Is Death !!!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Chocolate Town USA
    Posts
    1,185

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    pop them out with a screw driver ...............


    Then put the new ones back in , and tighten them down with the nuts drive it around alittle after the car is all back to gether and retighten the bolts
    2012 Ford Fusion 2004 V70XC 01 V70XC -M66 1998 C70 T5-M66

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Snoqualmie, Washington
    Posts
    163

    Default

    Pry to get out. Ok to heat the arms as long as it is evenly done and not too hot, 300-400 degrees F. Getting them in I had to lightly sand the first 3/16" to slightly taper it to allow it to even go into the arm. Before this the plate would bend while tightening the nuts. I then used a 2lb mallet and a piece of pipe to seat the joint into the arm. Worked great.

    Jeremy
    2001 V70XC, 2K V70, '87 740 TI Wagon 325K+! (what are the chances of the XC making it to 325K?)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Nova Scotia, Canada
    Posts
    1,438

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    Ok to heat the arms as long as it is evenly done and not too hot, 300-400 degrees F
    Are you loose?????? You DON"T HEAT UP FRONT END PARTS!!! PERIOD!!!!!!

    Dave.
    Our Most Probable Fate Is Death !!!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    North Florida
    Posts
    90

    Default

    I'm getting ready to go see if I can tap/pry them out. If they won't come out I'll just leave them alone. The car only has 45K miles on it, so the their replacement was preemptive. The control arm bushing did have a cracked bushing on the PS. Don't worry, I won't use any heat.
    I'll let you all know if I was sucessful.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Sacramento, CA
    Posts
    41

    Default Ball joint replacement

    xraybob

    I replaced the the ball joints on my 2001 V70 last year and took some pictures along the way. Assuming the 04 XC design isn't too different this may help you.

    ball joint replacement pdf file
    http://www.box.net/shared/5alpt6bqxn

    I didn't have any of the recommended special tools and I didn't have any problem tapping them out but without the special tools you have to be careful with bolt hole alignment as the new ball joints are being driven in and don't use the bolts to press them in.

    I initially attempted the ball joint replacement with just the lower control arm disconnected but didn't have room or good leverage to drive the new ball joints back into the wheel knuckle. Took the wheel knuckle off the car to do the job.

    Driving the old ball joint out is no problem, part of the ball joint mounting flange extends past the wheel knuckle so there is a lip for a punch to drive out the ball joint.

    Driving the ball joint back in is where you need to be careful with bolt hole alignment. I initially used the old ball joint bolts as guides as I was driving in the ball joint in but damaged the threads of the bolts and the alignment was good so removed the bolts and eyeballed the alignment from the start. If the bolts holes weren't aligning as the ball joint was being driven in I pulled it out and started over.

    I used an exhaust pipe adpater from Pep boys and a block of wood as a driver tool to start the ball joint in the wheel knuckle hole and then used a brass punch and hammer to drive the ball joint in the rest of the way. The exhaust pipe adapter didn't hold up too well to the pounding but was cheap ($2.50).

    Make sure the alignment of the ball joint bolt holes doesn't allow any bolt thread contact to the side of the holes in the ball joint mount flange. Any contact and the bolt threads will be damaged and then damage to the aluminum threads in the wheel knuckle would occur.

    One other thing to be careful when tightening the ball joint nut is be sure and counterhold the ball joint shaft while tightenting the nut to avoid damaging the boot. I say this because one of the original ball joint boots on my car looked like it was damaged from being twisted too far.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    North Florida
    Posts
    90

    Talking

    Thank you FirstVolvo for your excellent write up and pics on the balljoint removal/installation. I'll print this and use it when I replace my struts in the future. Otherwise, my control arm job went without a hitch and no more thunks.

    Thanks to everyone.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    North Florida
    Posts
    90

    Cool Success!

    I removed and replaced the balljoints with very little effort or issues on my wife's MY04. Thanks again for the directions.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Northshore - Great Lakes
    Posts
    479

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    Pictures? any.
    2001 V70XC - Nautic Blue/ 2-tone Sand/ Premium/ All Original/ Pirelli P4 12/32" - 740/ Duracell 48/ MOBIL-3309/ Pennzoil 5W-30/ Zimmerman Z-coated/ Akebono/ 146K-mi/ Great Lakes

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