What Did you do to your XC this week .

[juanpen]

Nope, here we have no problems with snow and salt, we are more attacked by the humidity of the sea.

Last course my daughter was in Ontario with a High School Zara scholarship. What a wonderful country & people!
And yes, it snows a little more there...

[Astro14]

Penetrant won’t do you any good with an axle.

Hit mine with several good shots of Kroil as I rotated the axle. Let it sit for an hour.

Bone dry and dusty with rust inside.

The seals on the transmission actually work...

[AutosDirectFlorida]

Interesting that no one has posted in this thread since the 8th - almost a month ago...
I suppose thats a good sign.

I had to replace the front end links after a year. The MOOG ball joints were ripped and toasted and clunking.
Went with Proforged this time - beefy product. Hope they last longer this go around.

Nearing 200k miles now and have zero complaints about this car outside of the random clunky trans issues.
Still need to do the trans filter mod and flush again.

[billr99]

Interesting that no one has posted in this thread since the 8th - almost a month ago...
I suppose thats a good sign.

I had to replace the front end links after a year. The MOOG ball joints were ripped and toasted and clunking.
Went with Proforged this time - beefy product. Hope they last longer this go around.

Nearing 200k miles now and have zero complaints about this car outside of the random clunky trans issues.
Still need to do the trans filter mod and flush again.

As a suggestion, I use front end links, usually Moog, on all my P2s that are actually listed for a 2001 Chrysler Concorde. They are the same design and length as the Volvo ones but the rod is close to 50% bigger in diameter. Also the Moog ones have greasable joints. Only mod that might be necessary is to get the holes in the sway bar the next size bigger to accommodate the stud in the link. These ones have studs that are equal size on both ends unlike the Volvo ones. Anyway, it stiffens up steering response although I can't see them being anymore reliable as the joints are the same. But being greasable might help some extend their life a bit.

Anyway, just a suggestion

Cheers,

Bill

[Brett San Diego]

Ripped the front bumper half off due to kissing the vertical mudstone wall of a desert wash while backing out because it became too narrow to continue, and smashed the underside of the bumper breaking one of the fog lights while going over some whoop-de-doos a little too fast. Was a fun run through Ocotillo Wells SVRA, though. And the desert super bloom was pretty cool.

Brett

[trevorj32]

Installed the IPD Poly bushing subframe kit, IPD polyurethane lower transmission torque mount link, strut bar conversion kit, threw in some new rensi plastic molded mats, and put on the "Summer" wheels. Which have "all weather" tires.

Interestingly, the front subframe mounts were much more dried out than the rears, all 4 were a pain to get the inserts into, especially when done lying on the floor. The car does have more engine noise while stopped, but not noticeably more when driving. Car shifts much better, and doesn't squirm all over the place when coming on the brakes! 3.5 hours (or one toddler nap) to get it jacked up, on stands, parts removed, installed, and off the stands. In addition to the new front struts/springs/etc., inner and outer tie rods, sway bar end links, the car drives much better! Only thing left is an alignment to straighten out the steering wheel. And to replace the metal zip tie on the outer passener cv boot (slipped off).

[trevorj32]

Attempted to take apart the rear wiper assembly, but the wiper arm has been glued/epoxied onto the motor shaft! Joys of buying used. Was able to get the wiper to work again, but will have to actually address it in the future.
I once found a Honda Hood emblem in the engine bay fuse box of a Toyota 4Runner. People do the weirdest things...

[trevorj32]

Replaced the outer steel "cable tie" on the passenger side cv, and packed in a bunch of new grease into the CV. The original had slid off the boot. That's what you get for buying the cheap replacement axles.

[trevorj32]

Oil and filter change (amsoil xl 5w30, mann filter). Front and rear rotors (Zimmerman), pads (textar), spark plugs (NGK 6962), fuel filter (Bosch), and topped off the rear diff oil.

[HogKiller]

My big adventure was changing the 'stop light', brake lights to the rest of us. Got fancy and did some research and settled on some flashing LED's. After giving up on getting in there the logical way, I came to this forum and read up on how to do those lights, needle nose pliers and patience required, removed the speaker, pull red tab out, while pulling on the tab depress the black tab above it, poof speaker out, needle nose to twist the bulb holder out, counter clockwise...GENTLY, replace bulb, rinse and repeat on the R side, NOTE EASIER to remove the little harness behind the speaker to get at bulb. Now the fun part, bulbs worked BUT still have an error on the dash and no flashing of the brake lights. These bulbs aren't suppose to require a resistor but....guessing they really do. Luckily I've got a ton of the resisters so..time to open things back up and install the resisters.