And the plot thickens...
After doing all the work on the previous pages, it still didn't work, and I thought it may have something to do with the o-ring being old, or the axle unround.
So I got it out for the third time and did some measuring.
The motor used 3 ampere and the voltage at my powersupply dropped to 8 or 9 volts (it is a 3A powersupply). I then reopened the box that contains the PCB and rang the manufacturer of the current limiting switch. It does not have type-number markings on it, but they confirmed my thoughts that this may be on the bottom. So after desoldering the unit, I gave them the numbers and they gave me the specsheet. Which they would not let me place here.
But the essence is that it trips at 7.2 A within 4-10 seconds. Testing showed this was about right, and further testing showed it tripped at 3A after 2 minutes. Since my motor uses 3A@8 volts, it will simply never work, so I deduced the motor has to be faulty.
I did a quick test with two powersupplies paralleled and the motor (without the currentswitch in place) now used 3+3=6A at ~12V. And this was without any gears attached!!!!!
So I opened up the motor. Again. And as said last time: you have to fold away metal tabs and you can only do this so often, as they damage the plastic housing.
I tried to reassemble it away from the gearhousing so I could turn it to feel the friction, but this didn't work well for two reasons: (1) the upper bearing is fixed in the gearhousing (and without it the magnetic force pulls the two motorparts together, so you cannot determine if it runs freely), and (2) the axle of the motor wouldn't go through the bottom bearing.
So I also removed the lower part of the motor housing (once again: tabs, even worse ones than the ones holding the motor attached to the gearhousing...). The bottom bearing was misaligned. After thoroughly rotating, lubricating and fiddling, it seemed quite smooth again.
I reassembled the bottompart, attached the motor to the gearhousing, whacked all tabs into place and hooked the motor up: succes: currentdraw at 14V: 0.7A. About 10 times less (!) than half an hour earlier.
Resoldered the current-limiting-switch, and after hooking everything up in the car, I now actually have a working rear-wiper
So to recap:
My problem was the axle running from the gears to the wiper.
When fixing this I may have added a new problem, or may have overlooked an existing (possibly bigger) problem: the bearings of the motor.
Two pics of the top-bearing. Not sure whether the axle is supposed to rotate inside the shaft or that the 'ball-jointed' bearing is supposed to rotate within its outer part as well. The fact that it is somewhat of a ball-joint (?) was the reason it was misaligned at the bottom of the motorhousing, and I couldn't get the inner-part of the motor to slide in. That's what forced me to open up the bottom part, of which I obviously have no pics, as I got carried away and forgot all about pictures Both bearings, top and bottom, seem identical.
And at a slight angle
The thermal current limiting switch. The 24V3T marking is NOT a 24 volts 3 ampere marking what I thought at first, but a date Week 24 in year 03 probably. The "T" is the plant where it was made iirc.
Two more pics of the motor. Take note of the V-shaped tabs on the left side of the pic holding the plastic bottom part attached to the metal middle-housing... Pita to open (vice works well) and close (hammered a pin inbetween to wedge them apart again, but you cannot put the metal middle housing into a vice while doing this, as you may deform it and screw up the entire motor...)
Gratuitous pics
Last edited by r-p; 03-31-2009 at 02:06 AM.
Need AWD info, so that's why I invade your forum with my V70 D5 AWD...
Hope you don't mind...
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