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  1. #71
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,116

    Default

    No one said XOM designed the JWS-3309 specification, but the world's largest lubricant manufacturer refines it and sells it to lots of folks....who re-bottle it as their own. Not rumor. Fact.

    You can pay twice as much, but it's not "better" because you paid more....

    The cheapest source for me is my local Toyota dealer and I get a case of T-IV at a time for about $5.75 / QT.

    And stop thinking of Toyota as Japanese....the Tundra and Camry are made in the US...should you only use Japanese oil in them?

    Should I only use oil made in Germany in a Mercedes that was made in Alabama?

    You've got a Swedish car with a Japanese transmission. Worry about specification, not country of origin.
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (126K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (55K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (143K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
    2004 XC90 (235K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-XC (295K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-T5 (225K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  2. #72
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    1,196

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Astro14 View Post
    You can pay twice as much, but it's not "better" because you paid more....
    Did I say I want to pay more? I only said that I'm trying to figure out if Aisin ATF is OE.

    The cheapest source for me is my local Toyota dealer and I get a case of T-IV at a time for about $5.75 / QT.
    Toyota T-IV is likely exactly what Aisin sells as Type T-IV.
    I get Mobil 3309 for slightly under $5/qt

    And stop thinking of Toyota as Japanese....the Tundra and Camry are made in the US...should you only use Japanese oil in them?
    Designed in US, w/o using Toyota technologies, or just assembled in US? I bet, latter. Toyota's factories are all around the world, but Camry is still Camry, only slight details vary.

    Should I only use oil made in Germany in a Mercedes that was made in Alabama?
    ATF is a bit different. If transmission has controlled slippage, you'd better using ATF with same viscosity and other working parameters as OE. AW55 is such transmission.

    You've got a Swedish car with a Japanese transmission. Worry about specification, not country of origin.
    Amsoil is JWS-3309, but both my 2001 V70 and 2005 XC70 had tons of flares and slips. Idemitsu Type-TLS is JWS-3309, it performs far better than Amsoil in V70. It even pours differently, Amsoil pours less viscous. Mobil 3309 I use in XC70 is also JWS-3309, it went off specs in less than 15k miles. I don't know how many miles OE ATF did when I bought the car, it was much darker than Mobil now, but transmission was shifting better. As you see, spec is vague, and different fluids have different longevity of life. I obviously want ATF to be close to OE and have longest life possible w/o loosing in quality. Price also matters.

  3. #73
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Dimock, PA
    Posts
    1,559

    Default

    I have seen that Amsoil "recommends" its ATF for JWS-3309 applications but I have yet to see Amsoil claim that any of its products actually meets the JWS-3309 specification. I think there is a difference....
    Bill
    63 PV544 (attempted restoration)
    83 245 DL OSD (transferred to son)
    85 240 GL OSD (transferred to son)
    03 XC70 OSD (traded-in 4/12)
    05 AWD S80 OSD (transferred to son)
    12 XC70 T6
    16 S60 T5 Drive-E (FWD)

  4. #74
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,116

    Default

    You're basing your search for "OE" on the faulty premise that the stuff that was poured in at the factory is somehow better than the Mobil 3309.

    It isn't.

    Learn the difference between "meets spec" and the oil maker "recommending for use in the following applications".

    They aren't the same.

    I do understand oil specs and how transmissions work...if you can get Mobil 3309 for $5/qt, use that, change it often and find more important things to worry about.
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (126K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (55K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (143K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
    2004 XC90 (235K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-XC (295K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-T5 (225K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  5. #75
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    3

    Default

    Many thanks for this thread !, My transmission was shifting very badly so I used this method to flush & used the vida/dice to run the adaption.. It now shifts up & down a whole lot better in my 2004 xc70 ...cheers

  6. #76
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tj2k View Post
    No way of measuring exactly what comes out - litre by litre, and replacing only whats removed?

    Volume is not the right way when it comes to oil or flour. The density change a lot with temperature. (the flour depend how hard you pack)

    Uue weight. Get a scale that reads up to 5000g with 1g resolution. Weigh and mark your bottles, oil pan etc. Also weigh a pile of rags and then as you go you can keep exact account on where your oil is.

    You should be within 10-20g when done.

    http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showth...904#post148904

    Ulf
    Last edited by tribologist; 09-01-2013 at 07:55 PM.

  7. #77
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    7

    Default

    Is there any interest in the fittings I made for the oil change shown in http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showth...904#post148904

    I could make them for $25 incl shipping.

  8. #78
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Brooklyn, 11201
    Posts
    49

    Default Might Be Useful - DIY Volvo XC70 Transmission Flush

    I found a great video on the web that I thought could be useful for those wanting a walk through of what to do for a transmission flush at home. Sorry if this is already on the site but I could not find a thread relating to it.

    As has been pointed out, please be aware that use should use the recommended ATF in your transmission, failure to do so could result in damage and and expensive repair bill.

    Last edited by Blame Me; 12-05-2013 at 12:44 PM.

  9. #79
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,116

    Default

    Don't know if I can recommend his choice of fluid though...while Mobil 1 was once recommended for our transmission, it no longer is. I would stick with the cheaper, and more appropriate, Mobil 3309...

    http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...hetic_ATF.aspx

    http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/..._ATF_3309.aspx
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (126K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (55K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (143K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
    2004 XC90 (235K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-XC (295K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-T5 (225K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  10. #80
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    267

    Default

    Nice Video, BUT...

    *Mobil 1 Synthetic does not meet spec. (unless that has changed very recently). Use Mobil 3309 (or toyota T-IV). Some people swear by Amsoil- I play it safe.
    *Remove the fresh air intake pipe (it just pops out). Much easier to reach in. This makes it hard for me to watch this!
    *A funnel with a flexible hose (18"?) works best. It's not necessary to remove the funnel while performing this procedure.
    *In theory, moving through the gears while pumping fluid out, helps clear more dirty fluid trapped inside various channels. This is probably not absolutely necessary.

    Much has been mentioned about the proper way to check the fluid, so it should be mentioned that you must do it after the transmission is fully up to temp. This takes longer than getting the engine up to temp. 20 minutes of city driving should be safe (or you can check the temp with your Vida-Dice setup). Do it when the car is perfectly level. run through the gears before you check it and keep the car running (obvious?). Wear long sleeves or you will surely burn yourself.

    Did I miss anything?

    Great vid though! Should probably be posted in the "Big Transmission Post..." sticky with the above mentioned "tips".
    Last edited by guyeye; 12-05-2013 at 12:31 PM. Reason: Yes! What Astro14 said.
    Guy Welch
    2004 XC70 90K miles
    Ash Gold Metallic/Oak
    English Shepherd option installed in rear.

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