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  1. #61
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    South Bend IN
    Posts
    278

    Default

    cleaned up + bulb lube = never an issue again

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Nashville, TN
    Posts
    777

    Default

    Gastockman, you will probably need to replace the bulb at some point soon. The tap most likely just knocked the burned out filament back together. It might also be that the socket contacts are corroded or fatigued and not holding contact. I recently had to replace both front turn signal sockets due to fatigued contacts. The position light is more likely the filament. Get a Sylvania 5007 or equivalent and keep on hand for the day when the "smack" method no longer works.
    2001 Volvo V70XC
    Venitian Red/Beige
    Cold Weather/Touring/Premium packages
    08/01 Build Date

  3. #63
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Tøsberg, Oslo
    Posts
    302

    Default

    But the smack-method always work. I use it on both front driverside positioning-light and rear driverside "main"-light.
    Current Cars:
    1994 BMW 850 CiA (151k km) Diamond Schwartz. A chipped 5.0 liter V12 4-speed auto with every option imaginable.
    1968 Cadillac DeVille Convertible Survivor (44k miles). A 7,7l, 472 cid, 3 ton monster doing 6 MPG.

    Previous Cars:
    2004 XC70 2.5T (Died at 173k km) Saphire Black with black interior. RTI, manual seats and an automatic 5-speed.


    "My wife has now officially banned me from any more automotive DIY." - jyanno

  4. #64
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    1

    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by MoeB View Post
    In the tail light housing. Number 3 in this image:
    I gave it a smack and the warning light is off. Everything's back to normal. Thanks Moe!

  5. #65
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Michigan, USA
    Posts
    460

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Marinerman View Post
    I gave it a smack and the warning light is off. Everything's back to normal. Thanks Moe!
    My experience is that the smack method works about half the time. But before too long the filament does burn out completely. So I'd suggest you buy a replacement bulb the next time it's convenient to do so. Then you'll have it ready when the day arrives when repeated smacking results only in a sore hand (and possibly bystanders wondering why that crazy guy is beating his Volvo with his fist.)
    Last edited by Pennhaven; 06-20-2011 at 10:17 AM.
    '04 XC70, Ash Gold / Taupe, Premium, Touring, Tinted Rear Glass, Rear Skyddsplåt, Wing Profile Load Bars, USA Spec 11,
    StonGard Light Protection, Yokohama YK740 GTXs, Meyle HD Sway Bar Links, ipd HD TCV, subframe & top brace poly bushing inserts,
    TitaniumTim XC Cup-holder Coasters.

  6. #66
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Pennsylvania
    Posts
    1

    Default

    I found that this bulb is the # 3 position on the back tail light system. I replaced the two bulbs and then the "Bulb Failure" message cleard. The bulb number is 7005 model and I couldn't find the bulb number given in the book.

  7. #67
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Lincoln, CA
    Posts
    1

    Default

    Got a bulb failure position light, and thanks to this message board, I located the offending bulb in the right rear tail light assembly. While I can remove the 2 filament lamp below the burnt one (turning the tab CCW 1/4 turn ) I cannot figure out how to remove the burnt out one. This bulb is at the point where the tail light lens narrows and is directly above a tail/brake light bulb.
    Any suggestions?
    Thanks,
    Len

  8. #68
    winnipegtibook Guest

    Default Help - can't get the bulb / receptacle to "click" in pillar

    This post has been great, just replaced a bulb but for the life of me, can't get the new bulb / grey receptacle to "click" back into the light housing. Is there a trick to getting it completely seated? It came out like a charm, but I've been at this for 90 minutes and almost ready to pour a drink!

  9. #69
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    London, UK
    Posts
    4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by winnipegtibook View Post
    This post has been great, just replaced a bulb but for the life of me, can't get the new bulb / grey receptacle to "click" back into the light housing. Is there a trick to getting it completely seated? It came out like a charm, but I've been at this for 90 minutes and almost ready to pour a drink!
    Have that drink, walk away from it. Come back later with a torch, take a good look at the back of the socket, at how the bulb looks through the lens in the other side of the car, and at where the receptacle is pointing in the other side. Make yourself comfy in the boot, then keep rotating the holder, lift it out a little and twist a bit more until it reseats, see if that looks right from the lens. Eventually you'll get it all lined up and (from as far down the stem as you can reach) twist it to lock. It won't lock if the receptacle isn't flat against the socket, but you can see through the lens when you've got it positioned almost-right and work from there.

    I too spent a good while trying to refit it, in the car park at the place I got a replacement bulb. Eventually gave up, came back to it some hours later, spent a lot less time and finally got it. I do like the wires-free method that makes it less bulky in such tight spaces, I bet it's real simple on the bulbs below, but this one is still on the fiddly side, and I don't even have particularly podgy hands.

    Oh and I'll mention parking light a few times because my car and docs both say parking light, but all the advice online about changing my parking light bulb call it the position light.
    the hatter

    2005 XC70 SE, Crystal Green, Black leather, silver mesh, Winter kit

  10. #70

    Default

    I came up with a fix for this today...took out the rear light assemply and soldered wires to the position light bulb so its always connected. I can post pics later.

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