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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    5

    Exclamation Timing belt help!!!

    Hello guys, this will be my first post to the new forums, and I am in desperate need of help. Here's how the whole thing starts... I buy a gold 2001 volvo xc70 2.4T from my sister to use as a winter car since I have a mk3 supra that is only for summers. I drive the XC for a week, absolutely love it! But then when I'm almost home from work one day, the car suddenly starts acting horrible and smelling very hot.. I madly pull into my driveway,pull off the oil cap to see that steam was coming out (after engine was shut off)!! Anyway, the next weekend I get to tearing down the whole engine(whilst in the car)with ABSOLUTELY no prior knowledge about Volvos (other than building some toyota engines i.e. the Supra).. fast forward to the moment I pull off the head a realize how badly warped it is. Luckily, I was able to get it resurfaced and stay within spec. So far i have everything back together, with the exception of the timing belt.... I for the love of me cannot seem to figure out how you Volvo people do the timing on these things!!! I have read the XC resource articles by Art and Will, however I am confused by the dang VVT gear on the exhaust!!! in some articles I read, you either have to only have the cam gear teeth lined up or the rear slots horizontal... but then I also read that for the spring loaded VVT gear, that you must lock the rear of the cam and push the VVT gear to the clockwise locking position as you put on the belt... So any advise on which one of those methods to use would be greatly appreciated. I'm just worn out from continuously changing the timing for nothing... I have already checked the compression and the highest I can get it is 125 psi which is at 5300 feet altitude soooo 155ish sea level?? The car cranks but just won't start! I know it has no bent valves and that I already replaced the Cam position sensor.. I've already sunk so much time and money into this, it would be AMAZING if someone could help me through setting that up.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    East Midlands uk
    Posts
    98

    Default

    there is a how to on you tube by fcp


    Quote Originally Posted by jslice View Post
    Hello guys, this will be my first post to the new forums, and I am in desperate need of help. Here's how the whole thing starts... I buy a gold 2001 volvo xc70 2.4T from my sister to use as a winter car since I have a mk3 supra that is only for summers. I drive the XC for a week, absolutely love it! But then when I'm almost home from work one day, the car suddenly starts acting horrible and smelling very hot..
    I madly pull into my driveway,pull off the oil cap to see that steam was coming out (after engine was shut off)!! Anyway, the next weekend I get to tearing down the whole engine(whilst in the car)with ABSOLUTELY no prior knowledge about Volvos (other than building some toyota engines i.e. the Supra).. fast forward to the moment I pull off the head a realize how badly warped it is. Luckily, I was able to get it resurfaced and stay within spec. So far i have everything back together, with the exception of the timing belt.... I for the love of me cannot seem to figure out how you Volvo people do the timing on these things!!! I have read the XC resource articles by Art and Will, however I am confused by the dang VVT gear on the exhaust!!! in some articles I read, you either have to only have the cam gear teeth lined up or the rear slots horizontal... but then I also read that for the spring loaded VVT gear, that you must lock the rear of the cam and push the VVT gear to the clockwise locking position as you put on the belt... So any advise on which one of those methods to use would be greatly appreciated. I'm just worn out from continuously changing the timing for nothing... I have already checked the compression and the highest I can get it is 125 psi which is at 5300 feet altitude soooo 155ish sea level?? The car cranks but just won't start! I know it has no bent valves and that I already replaced the Cam position sensor.. I've already sunk so much time and money into this, it would be AMAZING if someone could help me through setting that up.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Devon PA
    Posts
    11,409

    Default

    A bad CRANK sensor will also prevent starting
    All emails please use: jrl1194 (at) aol.com

    2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak, 112K miles. My daily driver and GORGEOUS
    2000 V70R wife's. Won't sell, now at 148K miles !! and still (almost) perfect.
    2000 S70 GLT SE with 29,000 miles!!! A time capsule, V70R front bumper, Volans, etc. SOLD!!! (I Will regret selling this!)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Quebec
    Posts
    336

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JRL View Post
    A bad CRANK sensor will also prevent starting
    +1
    ------------------
    V70 '07 "The V"
    XC70 R - Snabb intake, RICA 2.5, EST 3" DP, R exhaust... etc etc..
    ------------------
    XC70 '05 "Grizzly" -- SOLD
    S70 '99 LPT "Blackie" -- SOLD
    S70 '98 NA "Pearly" -- SOLD
    740 '90 B230F "Rusty" -- SOLD and now DEAD
    ------------------
    and some Gibson, Fender, Marshall,... but it's another thing... !!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    5

    Default

    I will remove and try cleaning the crank sensor to see if anything changes. I watched the FCP videos already, didn't really deal with the spring loaded VVT gear, unless there's one I'm missing.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Devon PA
    Posts
    11,409

    Default

    You don't clean these you replace them
    All emails please use: jrl1194 (at) aol.com

    2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak, 112K miles. My daily driver and GORGEOUS
    2000 V70R wife's. Won't sell, now at 148K miles !! and still (almost) perfect.
    2000 S70 GLT SE with 29,000 miles!!! A time capsule, V70R front bumper, Volans, etc. SOLD!!! (I Will regret selling this!)

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    5

    Default

    I thought technically you just clean them if they only have metal shavings picked up by the magnet?? That's all mine had. the car has no current DTC codes, however the DDC codes (brought up by holding down the odometer reset button) showed codes 22, 26, 61, and 66. As far as I understand it, 22 is "throttle position sensor voltage issue", 26 is a "AUX shutdown active" 61 is "injector response too long" 66 is either "engine knock sensor or oil filter restriction sensor"

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Western Head, Nova Scotia
    Posts
    3,089

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jslice View Post
    I thought technically you just clean them if they only have metal shavings picked up by the magnet?? That's all mine had. the car has no current DTC codes, however the DDC codes (brought up by holding down the odometer reset button) showed codes 22, 26, 61, and 66. As far as I understand it, 22 is "throttle position sensor voltage issue", 26 is a "AUX shutdown active" 61 is "injector response too long" 66 is either "engine knock sensor or oil filter restriction sensor"
    Scan with VIDA/DiCE that's the only sure way of knowing what's going on. In the case of a crank sensor, VIDA will tell you if it is 60%, for example, if it only works some of the time. Generic scanners will only tell you good or bad and only bad if its 100% dead.

    Cheers,

    Bill
    Western Head, NS CDN

    '08 BMW 750i (Black Sapphire)-204K kms to-date
    '05 XC70 (Lava Sand)-296K kms to-date
    '02 V70XC-gone @393K kms
    '05 V70R (Magic Blue)-120K mi to-date - gone
    '96 854R (Red)-real CDN-spec 5-speed R - gone @270k kms
    And other Volvos and misc. Euro stuff

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    GA
    Posts
    1,420

    Default

    IMHO the Only way to retime Volvo cams after cylinder head removal and installation is with the special tool that hold the cams in the correct position. Then align the belt according to the instructions in VIDA. The instructions are different for various years.

    I have not seen a bad crank sensor on a 850/960/and newer car. (still have 2 850/960 sensors in stock for the past 18 years) The b230 sensors (240/740/940) were notoriously bad, but perhaps things are different in colder climates from where I am.

    You had a head "resurfaced" - When an overhead cam head warps it warps the bottom (head gasket surface) and the top (cam bearing journals) - IMHO the proper way is to have the head "straightened" so the cam are rotating in a straight bore, not one banana shaped. Then perform a valve job. And since the lifters adjust the valve clearance - do a valve adjustment.
    Last edited by hoonk; 12-19-2014 at 08:04 PM.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Western Head, Nova Scotia
    Posts
    3,089

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by hoonk View Post
    I have not seen a bad crank sensor on a 850/960/and newer car. (still have 2 850/960 sensors in stock for the past 18 years) The b230 sensors (240/740/940) were notoriously bad, but perhaps things are different in colder climates from where I am.
    Interesting. When I replaced mine a couple of years ago, VIDA was showing it at a 60% failure rate. This was actually in the summer when I would have a failed-to-start situation after the car sat in the sun for a period of time after a period of running a couple of hours prior or so. After letting the car sit, ignition off, for a couple of minutes, a subsequent attempt would have the car start with the "diminished performance" or whatever message on the dash. Car would drive fine though and after sitting for a bit after shutdown, say overnight, the start would be fine and it might stay that way for a few days. Good thing with this was at least a code was stored even though a CEL was not lit and as I mentioned, VIDA showed a gradually increasing failure rate on the crank sensor until I changed it. Now as far as climate, our summers here aren't even close to GA's with the normal high temps around 80F and normal summer temps in the low to mid 70s so I'm not sure how much that might have influenced things. I'm inclined to think that heat of operation for a period of time, say 30 minutes or more, was more the culprit. In any case, it was a real PITA to try and diagnose and was one of those times that I was glad I had a VIDA/DiCE otherwise I would have been chasing it still.

    Now with all this said, I will say it has been the only crank sensor I've ever had to replace on any car but at close to 300K kms at the time, it didn't surprise me. At that kind of mileage, nothing much should surprise you.

    Cheers,

    Bill
    Western Head, NS CDN

    '08 BMW 750i (Black Sapphire)-204K kms to-date
    '05 XC70 (Lava Sand)-296K kms to-date
    '02 V70XC-gone @393K kms
    '05 V70R (Magic Blue)-120K mi to-date - gone
    '96 854R (Red)-real CDN-spec 5-speed R - gone @270k kms
    And other Volvos and misc. Euro stuff

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