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Thread: How to remove the rear engine mount????

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Snoqualmie, Washington
    Posts
    163

    Default How to remove the rear engine mount????

    I replaced 4 of 5 of engine mounts yesterday. Top, lower torque rod, and the side mount next to the pulley were torn and in need of replacing. Made the engine so much smoother. Highly recommend changing at 100K or sooner intervals.

    The one I did not get done was the aft mount under the exhaust. Any tips on getting to the bottom bolt? The sway bar is dead in line with it. If I could move it would be no problem. It looks like the sub frame has to be removed to get at the bolts to move the sway bar.

    Thanks,
    Jeremy
    2001 V70XC, 2K V70, '87 740 TI Wagon 325K+! (what are the chances of the XC making it to 325K?)

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Nebraska
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    1,300

    Default

    So, uh, anyone ever done this? I looked at doing it last weekend and like Jeremy, couldn't figure out how to get to the lower screw. VADIS says to remove the cat mounting but that doesn't look like it'll be much help, or will it?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Pacific Northwest
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    1,467

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    http://data.eeuroparts.com/Images/di...dfc016b26c.gif

    I think you mean #5 on this picture. I recently replaced my rack and saw how this mount was attached. I think you have to do quite a bit to get to it.

    1. Loosen the 5 bolts that attach the rack to the subframe
    2. Lower the rear of the subframe, the sway bar is attached to the subframe and will come down with it (sway bar end links probably have to be disconnected)

    3. Now you will see the rack suspended by a single nut that secures it to that mount. I've not done this mount but after you get to this step, probably not too many steps left to get to it. Might need to disconnect the rack at the steering column to drop it if you don't want it dangling where it connects to the steering column.

    Anyway, check the steering rack replacement procedure in the resource page for details (1/2 of the directions are for right hand drive cars so be careful) And this is quite involved. I've not heard these fail much. Common failures are mostly the upper motor torque (#3) and lower transmission torque mounts (#6)

    Oh I did this on my 2WD T5. The cat was not in the way. On the XC, don't know if the drive shaft exiting the angle gear going back will get in the way.
    SOLD 2001 V70XC @123k 20mpg. No more Volvos due to shift to better gas mileage
    SOLD 2001 V70 T5 @132k 22mpg.
    2013 Tesla Model S 85kWHr 14k miles 90 eMPG. Best car ever
    2011 Toyota Prius Model2 45k 60mpg
    2001 VW Golf GLS 1.8T Auto 143k Fahrvergnügen but only 23mpg
    http://freewebs.com/howardsvolvos/

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Snoqualmie, Washington
    Posts
    163

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by howardc64 View Post
    http://data.eeuroparts.com/Images/di...dfc016b26c.gif

    I think you mean #5 on this picture. I recently replaced my rack and saw how this mount was attached. I think you have to do quite a bit to get to it.

    1. Loosen the 5 bolts that attach the rack to the subframe
    2. Lower the rear of the subframe, the sway bar is attached to the subframe and will come down with it (sway bar end links probably have to be disconnected)

    3. Now you will see the rack suspended by a single nut that secures it to that mount. I've not done this mount but after you get to this step, probably not too many steps left to get to it. Might need to disconnect the rack at the steering column to drop it if you don't want it dangling where it connects to the steering column.

    Anyway, check the steering rack replacement procedure in the resource page for details (1/2 of the directions are for right hand drive cars so be careful) And this is quite involved. I've not heard these fail much. Common failures are mostly the upper motor torque (#3) and lower transmission torque mounts (#6)

    Oh I did this on my 2WD T5. The cat was not in the way. On the XC, don't know if the drive shaft exiting the angle gear going back will get in the way.
    Yep, that's the one. I really don't think its bad but when I needed to change the other two (3&6) that fail early I though why not do all of them. Wrong! Not sure that I want to disassemble so much just to change that mount. Yes the angle box is right in the way.

    Thanks for the info,
    Jeremy - near by in Snoqualmie
    2001 V70XC, 2K V70, '87 740 TI Wagon 325K+! (what are the chances of the XC making it to 325K?)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Chattanooga, TN
    Posts
    105

    Default

    I really don't understand why they made #6 so wimpy?
    Charles
    '04 Volvo XC70
    '91 Alfa Romeo 164L
    '89 Volvo 244
    Charles

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Pacific Northwest
    Posts
    1,467

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ChazzyD View Post
    I really don't understand why they made #6 so wimpy?
    Charles
    Here is a guy that fixed one and probably made it much beefier for like $4.

    http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index...howtopic=94367

    Likewise, when the new square upper engine mount starts to have some slack due to rubber thinning after rubbing against the metal bracket, stick in a 1/8 inch thick rubber fixes that like new! Maybe a few bucks for small section of high temperature rubber from somewhere
    SOLD 2001 V70XC @123k 20mpg. No more Volvos due to shift to better gas mileage
    SOLD 2001 V70 T5 @132k 22mpg.
    2013 Tesla Model S 85kWHr 14k miles 90 eMPG. Best car ever
    2011 Toyota Prius Model2 45k 60mpg
    2001 VW Golf GLS 1.8T Auto 143k Fahrvergnügen but only 23mpg
    http://freewebs.com/howardsvolvos/

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Chattanooga, TN
    Posts
    105

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    I think I will try that with my old lower mount and see how it works, Thanks
    Charles
    '04 Volvo XC70
    '91 Alfa Romeo 164L
    '89 Volvo 244
    Charles

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    1,300

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    Quote Originally Posted by howardc64 View Post
    http://data.eeuroparts.com/Images/di...dfc016b26c.gif

    I've not heard these fail much. Common failures are mostly the upper motor torque (#3) and lower transmission torque mounts (#6)
    I've not much experience with these Volvos but I'm wondering if wear of the engine pads is actually what leads to failure of the other mounts. When the engine pads are worn the engine is actually sitting maybe an 1" lower than when the pads are new. When I replaced the #1 mount recently the engine actually lowered onto the mount and pushed it all the way down to where it doesn't seem to be able to operate effectively in the way that it was designed. Most of the rotational torque of the engine should be absorbed by these two side engine pads with the upper and lower torque rods serving only as extra stabilizers. Perhaps that's why the original design didn't call for polyurethane bushings, because the hydraulic pads are supposed to do most of the work. Anyway, a Volvo tech on another site said I should be able to access the lower screw on the rear pad just by removing the cat mounting, so I'll give that a go and see how it goes.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Nebraska
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    Quote Originally Posted by sjonnie View Post
    Anyway, a Volvo tech on another site said I should be able to access the lower screw on the rear pad just by removing the cat mounting, so I'll give that a go and see how it goes.
    Yep, this works, undo the CAT mounting bolts and the bracket folds down and forwards, then you can get a 14mm socket on a 3/8 universal joint and a 6" extender and undo the screw, it's pretty tight in there, tight enough that a 1/2" drive won't fit. Then a problem arises when you undo the screw because as it unscrews it pushes the universal joint into the sway bar, the only solution I found was to lift up the engine, get a ring wrench on the screw and turn the engine pad,
    Anyway, now I have all new engine mounts and idle vibration is hardly noticeable. Hopefully won't need to go near those again for another 120,000miles

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    5

    Default

    I spent the better part of the day yesterday replacing all the mounts on my ;01 XC. At 115k they were all shot.

    I was having lots of vibration, especially at freeway speeds where the motor was moving at a different frequency than the suspension. Very annoying.

    Most of the mounts were simple wrench jobs, but I figured I'd talk about my experience with the rear mount:

    First, I found it very helpful to first unbolt the mount located behind the splash guard inside the passenger side wheel, it gave me the flexibility to move the motor around while I did the lower mounts.

    Second, I didn't find it very helpful to remove the Cat mount, it really just paid off to be patient and use the six inch extension. I have an extension with a wobble end on it which was easier to use than a universal joint. That being said, it took three hours to replace the rear mount and one hour to replace all the rest!

    It was a pretty ugly job, but it has made a huge difference! I hope I never have to replace that rear mount again.

    Thanks for everyone's help getting me started on this.

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