Timing belt condition.

Printable View

04-15-2012, 10:45 PM
Brown Dog

Timing belt condition.

I have a 2001 XC70 with 137,000 miles on it, I got the car with no paperwork.
The place I bought the car from told me the timing belt had been replaced recently. Is their a way to tell the condition?
The timing belt looks pasty brown and dirty/dusty but doesn't look Like its fraying or cracking.
If it were nice and black like a new belt I would think it was ok but it just looks kinda old and dusty.
Ant tips for verifying the age?

Btw I'm assuming it was replaced at 100k or somewhere around that point, so that was 37,000 miles ago and I figure the belt could get dirty in that time frame.
04-15-2012, 11:18 PM
2008XC70

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brown Dog

I have a 2001 XC70 with 137,000 miles on it, I got the car with no paperwork.
The place I bought the car from told me the timing belt had been replaced recently. Is their a way to tell the condition?
The timing belt looks pasty brown and dirty/dusty but doesn't look Like its fraying or cracking.
If it were nice and black like a new belt I would think it was ok but it just looks kinda old and dusty.
Ant tips for verifying the age?

Btw I'm assuming it was replaced at 100k or somewhere around that point, so that was 37,000 miles ago and I figure the belt could get dirty in that time frame.

It's really the bearings that go on these cars and not the belt, although the belt will snap or shred after a short time if a bearing seizes.

How handy are you with auto mechanics? Parts for the job is only about $130 from online suppliers and another $50 for the water pump plus your labor time.
04-15-2012, 11:20 PM
XC70XC

A Volvo mechanic would be able to tell but judging by the amount of dirt and color, it maybe well worn too. To be really safe, good suggestion is to replace it with the tensioner. I have mine replaced recently when it is about 12,500 miles shy of the recommended mileage interval but it is very close to the recommended years. Even though no cracking or fraying, it is safer to just replaced the whole lot. Peace of mind motoring.
04-16-2012, 07:35 AM
Brown Dog

Yeh looks like im going to be doing this soon just for safety. I really didn't want to fix something that wasn't broke but theirs no way to know the age of it.

Any suggestions for a good timing belt, water pump brand?
I'm thinking ill just stick to Volvo factory parts.
04-16-2012, 10:58 AM
Astro14

IPD sells an OE kit that worked well in my cars, and there are other sources...but I've always had good luck with IPD expertise, even if they're not the cheapest...
04-16-2012, 12:39 PM
billr99

Quote:

Originally Posted by Astro14

IPD sells an OE kit that worked well in my cars, and there are other sources...but I've always had good luck with IPD expertise, even if they're not the cheapest...

I got my kit from FCP Groton and it has been fine. Theirs includes a Conti TB same as what is OEM as well as OEM rollers. Now they have a "performance" kit that uses a Gates "racing" TB. Besides being blue, I wonder if it would be all that better for the $20 more money?

When we raced Hondas and VWs we always used OEM TB with no problems (well, at least the TBs :(). And they weren't blue either.

Cheers,

Bill
04-16-2012, 08:50 PM
Brown Dog

I have been looking over the timing belt .pdf from the resources section.
Any tips for this job? how hard is it to get the crank pulley off? Will I have to get the special tool or is their another way?

Also what is the deal with the temperature setting on the idler pulley?
04-16-2012, 09:05 PM
howardc64

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brown Dog

I have been looking over the timing belt .pdf from the resources section.
Any tips for this job? how hard is it to get the crank pulley off? Will I have to get the special tool or is their another way?

Also what is the deal with the temperature setting on the idler pulley?

No need to pull the crank pulley off, have to fish a little to get the old belt out. Use the old belt to practice how to fish it back on before doing it with your new belt. There are a couple of obstruction points.

http://www.freewebs.com/howardsvolvos/engine.htm

On the tensioner. line up the rotatable marker between the goal post with the engine cold and tighten the bolt. Here is the pic. The marker is the metal tab closes to the belt. Its lined up between the openings on the 3 fingers behind it.

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2.../tensioner.jpg