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The inner CV on my 01 after 210K split. Trying to get to get it out has not been fun. Pry bars, cold chisels, turn and try again... rented the CV puller and slide hammer from Autozone (does not fit in between the CV and transmission). Any advice on what to attempt next?
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Seriously though - I've run into this before and it turned into a pry bar battle to the death.
Try spraying some PB Blaster etc in there and keep at it.
Maybe someone will have some insight more technical but............
PB’laster is garbage. First, best change you can make to your garage is throw it in the trash. That’s where it belongs. The best is Kroil. From Kano Labs. Buy it direct from them, or on Amazon.
That said, no penetrant is going to help because there is a seal in between the outside and the rusty guts where the snap ring is stuck. Don’t bother. The seal works. Spray all you like, whatever you like and it will still be dry and rusty where the snap ring sits.
I just did this job three weeks ago on a 240,000 mile car.
Hit it harder.
Seriously.
Cold chisel has the right angle. None of the commercial tools worked. My cold chisel didn’t fit as well as I would’ve like, so I bought a wood chisel and ground the edge off. You can try prying. I had no luck with prying. If you DO pry, pry so that the fulcrum is towards the outside of the seal, where the casing is thicker and away from the seal.
I spent two hours trying to get mine out. Had I a bigger hammer, it would’ve gone more quickly, but I was constrained by the amount of room and the ability to get in a good, hard swing.
The new one will go in so easily, you’ll think it’s not working right...
So yeah - thats not entirely true - but personal perception can mean more than reality sometimes -
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUEob2oAKVs
Real world test with real results and PB returned results almost identical to your Kroil
[thumbup] My personal experience is any lubricant is better than no lubricant, tried them all at one time or another, the last brand used gets the credit, but did the first brand start the process? those test results show the good old "Liquid Wrench" to be the most cost effective, thanks for that link.Quote:
Originally Posted by AutosDirectFlorida
I work on cars in the real world. Very poor experience with PB’laster.Quote:
Originally Posted by AutosDirectFlorida
I’ve seen this guy’s videos before. I like his methodology. Interesting. But he is doing two applications over three hours, and I rarely have that much time. I wonder if the time allowed made a difference.
I buy Kroil in the metal can, not aerosol, so it’s much less.
Also, I’ve had good luck with Liquid wrench, starting over 40 years ago...so, I understand that result.
But the bottom line, it won’t do any good on an axle. So, it doesn’t help the OP.
I've had great luck with Deep Creep. Seems the only penetrant that will work here in this salt air.
Cheers,
Bill
It is finally out! I ended up using 3 Irwin cold chisels. Taking your advice at one point had all three so far in it was a real fight to get them out. They way I was pounding went against my better senses.... Then turned the axle 90% and still the same. Did it again. They way I was pounding went against my better senses.... This time drove only the 7/8" and got it stuck real good. Trying to get it out I was beating on it transversely (in line with crank), I was hitting it pretty hard with a 5 lb sledge when all of a sudden "ping" it let loose. I was so scared I had cracked the transmission case..... I still could not pull it 100% by hand due to the rust, but now had the space to get the pickle fork Autozone slide hammer where it needed to be. This job really should not be as difficult as it was. So, glad it is out and the new one slid right in!Quote:
Originally Posted by Astro14
Scared me too.
But a few years ago, after an experience like yours, only without success, I gave up on the driver side axle on my FWD V70 and took it in to our local Volvo dealer.
Talked with the mechanic who did the work. He said, “Cold chisel. Nothing else works. You have to hit it REALLY hard”. When I asked about breaking the case, he said, “haven’t broken one yet”
Going on memory here. Had the same thing happen with ours. Rented the slide hammer and it didn't fit between case and CV. Ended up welding 2 large nuts to the CV, then welded a piece of flat stock with a hole to the nuts, threaded the slide hammer into another nut behind flat stock and after about 5 firm slides it came off. Lucky I have a little mig welder that works decently.
Learning to weld is on my short list of things to learn...and it would be ideal in this instance. I much prefer your method to whacking with a cold chisel...Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Mc
Separator tool inserted between 4-5 o'cock has worked for me.
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